My F10 reaching Renewing COE liao... Mileage 235,000km, Should I renew?

[misuno88]

Hi All,

Need your advice.

My F10 has no major engine faults, only wear and tear.
Uphostery came down, need to glue back or change
Some engine oil leak issue, just need top up when it runs low
Suspension old liao need to change
Driver side handle sticky
water tank may need to change
Mileage about 235,000km... dunno whats the max it can go?
sometimes has lost in power when accelerating, maybe timing belt issue

PARF value can get back about $21k
Renew COE for 10 years about $35k
If renew, its only like $60k for another 10 years.

What you all think?

 

[rssid]

6k a year deprec, road tax 150% @ year 5 onwards, things that need to be done include

1. Engine and transmission mounts at least 2X for the next 10 years
2. All gaskets at least 2X for the next 10 years
3. Radiator 1X
4. Starter motor 1X
5. Battery 2X
6. Timing Chain 1X
7. Valve Cover 1X
8. Spark plugs and coils 2 X for the next 10 years
9. Aircon Coil or compressor 1X
10. Brake Pads and Rotors 2X
11. All fluids brake, coolant rear diff transmission at least 2X
12. Comfort access malfunctions e.g Handles, door actuator, soft close mech 1X
13. Tyres rims 3X
14. All rubber bushings undercarriage ball joints etc etc etc
15. Dreaded rear main seal 1X

The list is not exhaustive but basically you have a choice 1X go workshop have them check your car then decide and 1x HUGE bill replace everything at year 10 or repair as you go and waste a lot of time going workshop again and again.

Keep in mind past year 10 basically the car pretty much has COE value only so drive till end is the only way to get your $ worth. Selling it at any point before that will incur a huge loss. That being said plenty of other brand new cars out thereat 10-12K dep a year which will be more fuel effecient and less prone to breakdown then an old BMW.

All the best in your decision !

 

[Bentanlh70]

personally, i wouldn't renew. can't afford frequent visits to workshops.

 

[Citizen69]

New/2nd hand 5 series will set you back at least S$18k+/- per year vs annual maintenance cost = your choice as its your pocket

note that the above only applies if the 'new' ride is less than 5 years, otherwise the maintenance stuff are going to add in.

At 235k mileage, you will need to consider changing the transmission gears (not just the mechtronics) which will set you back about S$2.5K-S$3.5k+/- (ws or sponsors) or S$5k ++ (AD)

Throw in a new S$1k++ (Eng Soon) torque converter just to be safe(?)

After the above stuffs mentioned (including rssid recommendation), you will have a fresh ride with minimal issues for the next 3-5 years.

Put aside sentimental value, you will need to assess and decide on the feasibility of the expenses of a 1 time overhaul VS S$18k+/- per year for the next 10 years, more if you do not drive the full 10 years.

 

[jujitsuka]

6k a year deprec, road tax 150% @ year 5 onwards, things that need to be done include

1. Engine and transmission mounts at least 2X for the next 10 years
2. All gaskets at least 2X for the next 10 years
3. Radiator 1X
4. Starter motor 1X
5. Battery 2X
6. Timing Chain 1X
7. Valve Cover 1X
8. Spark plugs and coils 2 X for the next 10 years
9. Aircon Coil or compressor 1X
10. Brake Pads and Rotors 2X
11. All fluids brake, coolant rear diff transmission at least 2X
12. Comfort access malfunctions e.g Handles, door actuator, soft close mech 1X
13. Tyres rims 3X
14. All rubber bushings undercarriage ball joints etc etc etc
15. Dreaded rear main seal 1X

The list is not exhaustive but basically you have a choice 1X go workshop have them check your car then decide and 1x HUGE bill replace everything at year 10 or repair as you go and waste a lot of time going workshop again and again.

Keep in mind past year 10 basically the car pretty much has COE value only so drive till end is the only way to get your $ worth. Selling it at any point before that will incur a huge loss. That being said plenty of other brand new cars out thereat 10-12K dep a year which will be more fuel effecient and less prone to breakdown then an old BMW.

All the best in your decision !

Hi Bro, sorry need to hijack this thread to ask some questions, my F10 currently has around 157k in terms of mileage have gotten it thru a thorough mechanical inspection before buying, so all those oil leaks n radiator leaks have been fixed but recently i found that when parking the brakes tend to squeal alot especially when applying parking brake is it the rotors or the pads? When i went for the inspection the mechanic told me the pads are relatively new & has about 80% thread left so is it due to the rotors? So far normal braking is good not much sound and definitely no grinding sound but under hard braking sometime can feel left rear side got some vibrations so was thinking to replace the rotors to those cross drilled or slotted types do you think this is advisable?

 

[rssid]

Hi Bro, sorry need to hijack this thread to ask some questions, my F10 currently has around 157k in terms of mileage have gotten it thru a thorough mechanical inspection before buying, so all those oil leaks n radiator leaks have been fixed but recently i found that when parking the brakes tend to squeal alot especially when applying parking brake is it the rotors or the pads? When i went for the inspection the mechanic told me the pads are relatively new & has about 80% thread left so is it due to the rotors? So far normal braking is good not much sound and definitely no grinding sound but under hard braking sometime can feel left rear side got some vibrations so was thinking to replace the rotors to those cross drilled or slotted types do you think this is advisable?

1. That squeal you hear when engaging the parking brake is the parking brake motor, and is normal (nothing you can do there).
2. If under hard braking you feel vibration it might just be the FRONT rotors have them checked or re skimmed see if that helps.
3. Cross drilled or slotted rotors look nice but have 0 use in daily driving except for looks. Basically now there LESS rotor for the friction material / brake pad to grab onto and slow the car down so now your braking performance is actually REDUCED.

 

[jujitsuka]

1. That squeal you hear when engaging the parking brake is the parking brake motor, and is normal (nothing you can do there).
2. If under hard braking you feel vibration it might just be the FRONT rotors have them checked or re skimmed see if that helps.
3. Cross drilled or slotted rotors look nice but have 0 use in daily driving except for looks. Basically now there LESS rotor for the friction material / brake pad to grab onto and slow the car down so now your braking performance is actually REDUCED.

Hi Bro,

Noted with thanks, btw the hard braking vibration went off after i changed to a set of lighter OZ rims... back then those feedback came from my OEM rims which was much heavier at 12.6kg now my OZ rims is @ 8.9kg per pc and i do feel the benefit of lower unsprung weight... the car feels more sprightly when taking off & when overtaking plus side is shorter braking distance... my only grip is the offset is not ideal thus my rear wheels now at certain angle looks slightly offset more towards the inside of the wheel arch... think it can be solved by adding spacers... But do you think its advisable?

 

[rssid]

Hi Bro,

Noted with thanks, btw the hard braking vibration went off after i changed to a set of lighter OZ rims... back then those feedback came from my OEM rims which was much heavier at 12.6kg now my OZ rims is @ 8.9kg per pc and i do feel the benefit of lower unsprung weight... the car feels more sprightly when taking off & when overtaking plus side is shorter braking distance... my only grip is the offset is not ideal thus my rear wheels now at certain angle looks slightly offset more towards the inside of the wheel arch... think it can be solved by adding spacers... But do you think its advisable?

Not an expert on tyres i'd go to a rim and tyre shop and get their advise