Need advice on E60 523i xl.
- Thread starter Fazly2103
- Start date
523i 6 cylinder not a fast car, 2.5L engine = VERY high road tax from year 10 till year 15 every year is +10% increment till a max of additional 50% of a orignal 2.5L road tax (Do the math).
Things that fail:
Gearbox solenoid/mechatronics = 3 - 5k fix
ALL under carriage bushings
ALL engine and transmission mount
Electrical issues once the wiring harness gets older
Alternator
Starter motor
ALL fluids have got to be changed
Radiator Leaks
Engine oil leaks
That being said all that WILL happen to a F10 as well its just a matter of time. If you've got the funds splash out for a 9 year old 535 F10 take the depreciation for 1 year see if you like the car. If not just scrap it at year 10. You get everything top end power the latest technology etc
Biggest mistake is to buy a >10 year old car thinking cuz its low dep or low cost, but that only works if you hold the car till the end of its COE life cuz if you try and sell basically the paper value is only COE value +1k or 2k for the body.
Things that fail:
Gearbox solenoid/mechatronics = 3 - 5k fix
ALL under carriage bushings
ALL engine and transmission mount
Electrical issues once the wiring harness gets older
Alternator
Starter motor
ALL fluids have got to be changed
Radiator Leaks
Engine oil leaks
That being said all that WILL happen to a F10 as well its just a matter of time. If you've got the funds splash out for a 9 year old 535 F10 take the depreciation for 1 year see if you like the car. If not just scrap it at year 10. You get everything top end power the latest technology etc
Biggest mistake is to buy a >10 year old car thinking cuz its low dep or low cost, but that only works if you hold the car till the end of its COE life cuz if you try and sell basically the paper value is only COE value +1k or 2k for the body.
Bentanlh70
Well-Known Member
I won’t go for any used car with high mileage, especially those above 120k.
COE car still the cheapest option unless really suay got a lemon.
new 5 series is >220k? depreciation for first 5 yrs is crazy. even u drive 10 yrs, after parf rebate and interest (loan), real depreciation can be >25k p.a.
Even 5y.o ones around 90-100k, end of it get parf, maybe 18k depreciation p.a., not low.
COE one, if u get at 65k, after loan interest, slap in 10k for overhaul, still less than 8k p.a. Also if u decide to change car after few years, not as painful as new cars.
(imagine drive 3yrs wanna change, new one is 30k+ p.a. depreciation, COE one maybe 10k p.a. it’s not linear one)
new 5 series is >220k? depreciation for first 5 yrs is crazy. even u drive 10 yrs, after parf rebate and interest (loan), real depreciation can be >25k p.a.
Even 5y.o ones around 90-100k, end of it get parf, maybe 18k depreciation p.a., not low.
COE one, if u get at 65k, after loan interest, slap in 10k for overhaul, still less than 8k p.a. Also if u decide to change car after few years, not as painful as new cars.
(imagine drive 3yrs wanna change, new one is 30k+ p.a. depreciation, COE one maybe 10k p.a. it’s not linear one)
Citizen69
Well-Known Member
A more than 10 year old car or mileage above 200k is perfectly fine in most places around the world as long as they are regularly maintained.
If anyone has been to a car assembly factory, you will know that a car is basically a well-designed metal "frame" affixed with many components like engine, gears, wheels, roof, glass and doors. Most of these are replaceable, except for the "frame"
Probably most beemer owners are well off and wouldnt want to 'seen' in an 'old' beemer?
If anyone has been to a car assembly factory, you will know that a car is basically a well-designed metal "frame" affixed with many components like engine, gears, wheels, roof, glass and doors. Most of these are replaceable, except for the "frame"
Probably most beemer owners are well off and wouldnt want to 'seen' in an 'old' beemer?
