Where do M drivers meet their Expert Mech's?

Ramirez

Member
Dear Frens,

i have an issue with my e46 m3 where im finding it sounding different from other S54 m engines, doesnt perform like one, sluggish, heavy, lack in punch....

i know this cause i've driven SMG & 6sp Manual M3's and i get such a different experience.

i did a dyno once and it recorded only 258hp's on wheel and this proves it to be bad..

No faults, error codes from the Autologic Diagnostics whatsoever.

is there any sifu that can give my car a complete post mortem to see what is wrong, it could be serious, it could be petty, i dont know and i'm quite sad about this...

Seeking help here.....
 
Re: Where do M drivers meet their Expert Mech's?

A more specific description is needed. What RPM, cold or hot start, under how much throttle starting at what RPM, does RPM climb smoothly or there is a pause, etc, etc.

From what you described, I can only think of a handful of issues they involve lethargic engine power but may sometimes not produce any fault code.

1) Dirty MAF - Buy a bottle of MAF Cleaner and spray the filament. Easy DIY about 5 mins.

2) Fuel Pump - Fuel pump should read about 5 volts. Generally doesn't produce any error codes. The symptoms are jerky power delivery anywhere from idle to redline. Worst especially when cold.

3) Foul spark plugs - Can check it yourself if you have the tools, if not, its a quick 10 mins job to get mechanic to pull all 6 out.

4) Faulty Ignition Coils - Some cases of fault code not appearing. This causes the cylinder with a faulty ignition coil not to fire. This symptom is quite obvious as the engine will be vibrating regardless hot or cold.

It is normal to for wheel horsepower to read lower than manufacturer claimed horsepower output. Wheel horsepower is measured at the wheel, Horsepower provided by BMW is measured at the engine. Power is expected to be lost via transmission, rotational mass, environmental factors such as temp, density etc.

It'll be good if someone you know has done a dyno at the same workshop in similar conditions for use as benchmark.
 
Re: Where do M drivers meet their Expert Mech's?

Hi AC,

thanks for the input, below are my comments.

i don't push the car at cold conditions, ie, i only push the car once it has reach optimum running temp, oil temp reads 97 to 103 degrees.

the real sluggishness starts between 2000 plus and in the range of 2500 to 3200, i do notice some flat spots. but generally. the overall power of the car seems questionable.

1) Dirty MAF, note on that, i just replaced mind from Bavarian Auto 2months back, the earlier faulty MAF Sensor was causing my car into limp mode intermittently, not to mentioned more flat spots throughout the rpm range (2500 to 7000) . Changing it solves this problem. now flat spots only in the above mentioned range.

2) Fuel Pump - Might need some check up on that, will try that.

3) Spark Plugs - checked it, mech said it looks ok. slight carbon built up but common and nothing to worry about.

4) Faulty Coils - Could be, but definitely neither one is completely out as engine seems well balanced (no vibration), just sounds very different from few other stock M 's that belongs to friends. but i'm def sure all 6 pistons are firing.

Yes i'm aware of that methodology, a S54 3.2 Litre M Motor produces factory power of 343 HP's on engine and with natural power loss through its drivetrain, a thru stock should delivery around 280 ++ to the wheels.

Not to mentioned that i have a K&N 63 power Filter with CAI. i shouldn't be doing 258 on wheel.

i'm only seeing this results as wrong as other M drivers that drove mine, notices the real loss of power.

imagine this, from most if not all Healthy m3's out there, shifting from 2nd to 3rd or even 3rd to 4th gear above RPM's of 6.5k ( peak power bend) , should give you the kick-like feel from the back or at least pin you back to your seats, but mine clearly doesn't.

Appreciate some comments from other M3 drivers out there.

is there a M expert anywhere in singapore with decend labour pricing, with a dyno to seek this issue i'm facing. Time is what i have.
 
Re: Where do M drivers meet their Expert Mech's?

Referring to this "kick-like" feeling, are we talking about a "kick-like" feeling from 2nd to 3rd, 3rd to 4th and so on in S5/6 mode (assuming yours is SMG) ?

If so, yes you are supposed to feel this kick like feeling at 100% throttle. Even in S3 the kick is fairly obvious and you don't need to redline for that to happen.

If you aren't getting a kick when upshifting, then I would look into your drivetrain instead of engine. Just a matter of troubleshooting and narrowing down to which area to look at.

This probably is of no relevance because your symptoms and mine aren't exactly identical. But its worth a shot. My 2004, 46,000km had a leaking SMG feedpipe. This feedpipe connects between your SMG reservoir and SMG pump.

Just before I sold my car, it was discovered my SMG reservoir was empty. The leak was not discovered because the hydraulic oil was caught by the undertray. Hence no oil leakage was discovered on the garage floor. The leaking SMG feedpipe is a very common issue. No correlation between low or high mileage cars.

The symptoms are; very jerky under normal acceleration. Flatspots from idle onwards. Once warm, the symptom disappears. Usually within 1-2 minutes.

The SMG fluid is a hydraulic fluid and therefore considered lifetime fluid and are often overlooked. There is no warning of leakage. I'm afraid its just something you have to check regularly bearing in mind how expensive SMG pumps can be. Again, your symptoms aren't identical like mine but is still something worth checking.

I'm afraid that's as far as my knowledge goes.

Have a look at the Site sponsor's link for BMW Specialists.

Site Sponsors | New Products / Services - BMW-SG - The BMW Singapore Community
 
Re: Where do M drivers meet their Expert Mech's?

Buddy,

Mine is a 6MT. Could it be cause of that, that the kick-like feeling is not coming?
 
Re: Where do M drivers meet their Expert Mech's?

Hi Ramirez
Would you like to bring your car down to Munich Automobiles for us to have a look? Please feel free to PM me.

MA
 
Re: Where do M drivers meet their Expert Mech's?

Hi andrew, I think it'll be best. Do you open on saturdays? If yes, what time do you close?

Actually I'm from KL, Msia. So if I get the right time, (you may suggest based on your schedule), I'll make a drive down and see you at MA.

You'll need to drive it to know what I'm talking about in regards to the slack. I'll probably gather up our M boys from here to join on the trip, visiting the first M showroom in Asia is def a bimmer freaks dream come true. ;-)
 
Re: Where do M drivers meet their Expert Mech's?

Ramirez;694015 said:
Buddy,

Mine is a 6MT. Could it be cause of that, that the kick-like feeling is not coming?

In that case, the kick like feeling wholly depends on your manual driving methods.

If the lack there of "kick-like" feeling you are referring to while in gear (clutch engaged), it could be either engine or drivetrain. If it was the clutch, the take up point would be lengthy. In worst case scenario, the clutch may also slip when in gear and clutch fully engaged.

Unfortunately, there are no guarantees if it is the clutch apart from pulling out the gearbox and visually look at it. At this point, I am just wildly speculating and not being very helpful. Its best to have a competent workshop look at it.

A good workshop is one that is able to pinpoint the problem quickly through experience and not having you to pay for them to learn.

A bad workshop is one that pulls your engine and drivetrain to pieces to find a simple problem. Good business if you charge by the hour.

Hope you get it fixed soon.
 
Re: Where do M drivers meet their Expert Mech's?

Dear AC,

i know where you're getting at, and i really appreciate it. Don't worry, because things like this are harder to describe but easier to notice, one could only tell the difference by driving one Healthy Stock one and mine to see what this is about.

the whole kick-like thing was a form of descriptive experience but what i really want to get back is an S54 Engine that is healthy, either by compression test, dyno or any other means possible.

I really hope its nothing major and I dont need to tear down the whole motor just to find it.

the thing is i have alot of plans for this car but i dont want to work on a sick machine, as i know i'll always have the feeling of i could have got more out of it but...you know..blah blah blah....
you know the whole bang for your buck thingy.

anyway, i think im going on too much here....i just need to be told by a competent work shop that my engine is absolutely fine and the HP drop is purely coz of the age and nothing can be done.

Not to forget, i have new OEM clutches on and my car has done so far 35k Miles on it. the sad part is im getting problems on it like a 80k age car.
 
Re: Where do M drivers meet their Expert Mech's?

Ramirez;694151 said:
Hi andrew, I think it'll be best. Do you open on saturdays? If yes, what time do you close?

Actually I'm from KL, Msia. So if I get the right time, (you may suggest based on your schedule), I'll make a drive down and see you at MA.

You'll need to drive it to know what I'm talking about in regards to the slack. I'll probably gather up our M boys from here to join on the trip, visiting the first M showroom in Asia is def a bimmer freaks dream come true. ;-)

Hi Ramirez,

Yes we do open on Saturdays but only till 12 noon.
You can check out our website

Munich Automobiles
 
Re: Where do M drivers meet their Expert Mech's?

Dear AC, I have a couple of related questions.

1.) When driving an SMG M3, it is normal to feel a slight 'lag' in the shifting especially from 1st-2nd gear? The lag seems to get less noticeable from 3rd-4th gear, 4th-5th gear and so on. This is assuming that I'm at S2 and M button is off. I read that this is a fairly common feel in SMG from other M3 forums. Having driven other newer models of 135i and 335i, some with DCT, the SMG feels rougher and not comfortable for daily driving. Would that be correct to say so?

2.) When driving the car on 5th gear and rpm is around 2k, I can feel very faint (not that noticeable but my butt can feel it) jerks from the car. Once I pressed on the accelerator abit more, this slight jerkiness is gone. Keep accelerating and no irregular jerking can be felt. Is this some kind of parts issue or that I wasn't driving with optimal gear selection to match that kind of rpm?

I think driving an SMG can be quite tricky. Appreciate that you can share some tips if you have any. Thanks.
 
Re: Where do M drivers meet their Expert Mech's?

Hi Drk,

That lag you refer to from 1st to 2nd gear is normal. I have tried updating the SMG II software to the lastest patch and SMG clutch relearn. Both of which did not provide any noticeable difference in Shifts, in fact none at all.

I did however tried experimenting with how the SMG behaves when upshifting and my conclusion is that the rate at which SMG changes is Throttle positioning dependent rather than RPM based.

Scenario A

When stopped at the lights, 1st gear, S3-S5 mode, apply 20-30% throttle (constant).
Accelerate at a pace as what a normal 1.3L car would and drag the RPM all the way to 4000 RPM and Upshift to 2nd.

Result: The upshift is almost just as slow. This is probably what you are currently experiencing.

Scenario B

Same settings as above.
This time give it gradually 70%-100% throttle. Definition of gradual means it takes about 1.5-2 seconds for you to apply the throttle from 0-70%, not slamming it. This time, Upshift when you hit 3000rpm or even 2500rpm.

Result: You will notice the gear changes from 1st to 2nd at a markedly improved rate. In S5 you'll hear a "thud", this is normal.

Give the above a try and let me know what you think.

So the question is, why is does SMG shift from 1st to 2nd slowly when dragged to higher RPMs in light throttle application but yet when under higher throttle application, SMG shifts from 1st to 2nd quicker and at even lower RPM ?

I'm no gearbox engineer or mechanic and I can't explain why the SMG II behaves this way.

I did however notice that in higher gears, 3-4-5-6 the gear changes are quicker than 1-2 in 40-50% throttle (normal accel). However I did notice that the shifts from 3-4-5-6 were markedly quicker had I given it 100% throttle. I can't provide any numerical figures to the meaning of "quick". This is something you have to interpret yourself by trying.

That is why I arrive at the conclusion that the more throttle you give it, the quicker SMG shifts instead of RPM.

The DCT functions on roughly the same concept as SMG but better. Similarities between DCT and SMG is that you have a hydraulic pump that operates the clutch work for you.

SMG: This works pretty much like a manual gearbox without the H pattern gear lever and clutch pedal.

Eg: To upshift from 1st to 2nd, Hydraulic pump clutches in, changes from 1st to 2nd, clutch out. The above motions take time (interruption of power) at low speed and the people who hated it did not understand the mechanics of it and expected seamless Auto gearbox like smoothness. In spirited driving, this is where the SMG shines because it is able to change gears quicker than any human beings could. For its time, the SMG was really high tech stuff.

DCT: Is pretty much the same but instead of 1 clutch, it now has 2 clutch packs.

Clutch Pack A handles all Odd gears (1,3,5).

Clutch pack B handles even gears (2,4,6).

Example:
At the traffic lights, Clutch Pack A is engaged in 1st gear, Clutch Pack B is ready in 2nd gear.

As you accelerate and Upshift, Clutch Pack B's 2nd gear is ready for you. As you Upshift from 1st to 2nd, there is no power interruption.

Meanwhile you are in 2nd gear, Clutch Pack A uses this time to change from 1st to 3rd gear and now 3rd gear is ready for you.

As you Upshift from 2nd to 3rd, again no interruption in Power and the whole cycle goes on.

Conclusion:

SMG: From 1st to 2nd, SMG clutch in, slots from gear 1 to 2, clutch out ---- Takes time, power interrupted

DCT: Clutch Pack A in 1st gear, upshift, Clutch Pack B's 2nd gear is ready ---- No time delay, power not interrupted.

Because of power interruption, this is probably why drivers thought SMG is rough.

Having said that, I did however try skipping a gear in both Upshifts and Downshifts. Eg. 2nd to 4th or 4th to 2nd. Because both are even gears, this means I am using the same Clutch Pack. I did notice a slight delay as it goes from 4th to 2nd or 2nd to 4th. You really have to pay attention to it otherwise you would not have notice. This has more to do with the mechanical side of things where technology has been improved over the years.

In regards to your 5th Gear jerk at 2000rpm. I think its normal. I experienced the same thing. I suspect the Jerk has more to do with the clutch disengaging to prevent the engine from stalling.

As you get back on the throttle, it almost feels like the clutch engaged again. There is also a very tiny slight hint of delay in power as you get back on the throttle.

Again, I'm not SMG expert and I'm not sure if the SMG software is written to behave this way. The reason why I suspect the clutch disengages is when at 6th gear coming to a complete stop, the SMG drops from 6th to 2nd and 2nd to 1st.

If you notice, as you are braking at say 20% to slow down while in 2nd, at a certain RPM there is almost a hint where the car lurches forward and you have to apply say 25% or maybe 30% to slow down at the same rate as before.

This is synonymous when driving a manual car, downshift to 2nd, you can feel the engine brake but as you near the stop line, clutch in, you feel the car rate of deceleration is not as much as when the engine was slowing the car down and you need to apply more brakes to slow the car down.

The above doesn't always happen as it depends on the rate of deceleration. If you brake too hard, the G force masks it. If you come to a complete stop too gradually, the speed is too slow for you to feel it. There seems to be a sweet spot when the SMG does this.

In saying that, if indeed the clutch disengages if you are in 5th at 2000rpm, why is the RPM still at 2000RPM and not at idle ? Honestly I can't explain this one.

=============================================================

I never had any problems with upshift. There really isn't much you can do about the 1st to 2nd gear delay. Its just how the SMG works.

You can however drive smoothly if you plan your downshifts well ahead. My first 2 weeks of driving was especially jerky when I downshift to 2nd to turn at a junction. I overcome this by planning my downshifts well ahead.

I noticed that as you are slowing down for a turn, if SMG goes from 3rd to 2nd at 2000rpm or lower, it helps eliminate this sudden deceleration jerk-like feeling.

The trick is to anticipate well before hand when you are going to downshift and when the gearbox actually downshift and at what RPM.

Example:

Slowing down and braking for a left turn at the junction, at about 2200-2300rpm, press the downshift paddle, by the time the SMG is in 2nd gear (it takes time for SMG to do that), your RPM matches 2000rpm nicely and you commence the turn.

If you were driving at a slightly higher speed and braking slightly more, you need to take that into account and press the downshift paddle at 2500RPM (eg.) so that by the time SMG is in 2nd gear, your RPM is at 2000RPM or about.

This takes some practice. Took me about 2 weeks. Once you're used to it, it becomes natural and you don't need to think that much.

Give this a try for the next 1-2 weeks and let us know what you think. I'm happy to meet up and demonstrate this if you're still having difficulties with it.

DrK;695824 said:
Dear AC, I have a couple of related questions.

1.) When driving an SMG M3, it is normal to feel a slight 'lag' in the shifting especially from 1st-2nd gear? The lag seems to get less noticeable from 3rd-4th gear, 4th-5th gear and so on. This is assuming that I'm at S2 and M button is off. I read that this is a fairly common feel in SMG from other M3 forums. Having driven other newer models of 135i and 335i, some with DCT, the SMG feels rougher and not comfortable for daily driving. Would that be correct to say so?

2.) When driving the car on 5th gear and rpm is around 2k, I can feel very faint (not that noticeable but my butt can feel it) jerks from the car. Once I pressed on the accelerator abit more, this slight jerkiness is gone. Keep accelerating and no irregular jerking can be felt. Is this some kind of parts issue or that I wasn't driving with optimal gear selection to match that kind of rpm?

I think driving an SMG can be quite tricky. Appreciate that you can share some tips if you have any. Thanks.
 
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Re: Where do M drivers meet their Expert Mech's?

Fantastic AC! Thanks for writing this long but certainly very useful contribution. Believe me, I had been reading up on other US-based M3 forums but none is as easy as this for layman to understand. This should be made sticky!

I totally agree with what you had wrote above. Many M3 articles had also confirmed the lag in 1st-2nd gear. But many said this can be minimized if you let go of your throttle abit when you shift up. I tried that a few times (not alot of success) but you are right to point out that it takes a couple of weeks of daily driving to perfect this. As for downshift, I think SMG is doing a good job by downshifting nicely for you as you brake. No complaints there. I like your analogy on the DCT. I always kinda understand how it works but your example gave a complete visualisation of the mechanism. Thanks!

I would like to meet up to do the demo but I'm not based in Spore. It isn't a Spore registered M3 either. Let me try out this weekend on your recommended 0-70%% throttle at 2k-2.5k rpm in S3-S5 and provide the feedback again. Honestly, I haven't really been driving the car that hard.

Btw, have you driven the SMG in auto mode? I know everyone prefers to shift the SMG manually. Quite the same for me as well. In that case, what use is the SMG in auto mode? Only applicable in bumper-to-bumper traffic?
 
Re: Where do M drivers meet their Expert Mech's?

DrK;696033 said:
Fantastic AC! Thanks for writing this long but certainly very useful contribution. Believe me, I had been reading up on other US-based M3 forums but none is as easy as this for layman to understand. This should be made sticky!

I totally agree with what you had wrote above. Many M3 articles had also confirmed the lag in 1st-2nd gear. But many said this can be minimized if you let go of your throttle abit when you shift up. I tried that a few times (not alot of success) but you are right to point out that it takes a couple of weeks of daily driving to perfect this. As for downshift, I think SMG is doing a good job by downshifting nicely for you as you brake. No complaints there. I like your analogy on the DCT. I always kinda understand how it works but your example gave a complete visualisation of the mechanism. Thanks!

I would like to meet up to do the demo but I'm not based in Spore. It isn't a Spore registered M3 either. Let me try out this weekend on your recommended 0-70%% throttle at 2k-2.5k rpm in S3-S5 and provide the feedback again. Honestly, I haven't really been driving the car that hard.

Btw, have you driven the SMG in auto mode? I know everyone prefers to shift the SMG manually. Quite the same for me as well. In that case, what use is the SMG in auto mode? Only applicable in bumper-to-bumper traffic?

The 0-70% throttle experiment is really to find out if the speed at which SMG changes gear is based on throttle or RPM parameters. Although the SMG changes from 1st to 2nd quickly under 70% throttle application, it also puts more stress on the drivetrain.

Therefore I tend to accelerate normally at 50% throttle and change from 1st to 2nd at about 3500rpm so that 2nd gear is still within sufficient powerband to continue acceleration.

I too have tried the "lift off" method many times. I have come to find that it exacerbates the shift times. At low speed, there really isn't any other way to quicken the shift speeds.

If you're free, have a mate ride along and count the number of blinks on your gear indicator when you try the "lift off" and "no lift off" method using same gears. You'll realise the number of blinks are the same for both methods and the shift speed is just the same if not worst, if you use the lift off method.

Its best to to maintain your foot on the throttle and let the SMG do its thing.

I don't drive in Auto Mode but have experiment with it. The reason why I don't use it is because the SMG changes gears when I don't want it to. Auto mode is probably for people who would rather prefer not to change gears or if there is a traffic jam or if their hands are temporarily occupied putting on their sunglasses or taking a sip of water.

The Auto mode or D mode works rather differently to S mode.

S mode determines the ferocity of the gear shift. In S6 mode, you can hear a fairly loud "thud" when changing gears. You can also feel a jerk as you Upshift from 1-2-3-4 so on.

D mode does not only determine the ferocity of the gear shift but also the shift point.

In D1, expect to move off in 2nd gear instead of 1st. This is applicable for winter climates. In D5 (as I don't use Auto mode, I'm not aware if there is a D6) in normal driving, the SMG changes gear at very high RPM. If you apply 10-20% throttle or if acceleration is very gradual, the SMG recognises this and upshifts slightly earlier.

The first time I used D5 mode, maintaining speed at 4000rpm for 2-3 seconds before SMG recognising I was just cruising and Upshifts.

By the way all these experiments about SMG and DCT on done on my Australian delivered 2004 E46 and 2008 E92 M3. Apart from SMG or DME software, I'm not sure if they are the same but emissions wise, I think the USDMs suffer a few horsepower losses.
 
Re: Where do M drivers meet their Expert Mech's?

Ok thanks. Alot of useful info there. I hope the threadstarter does not mind my OT'ing of his questions here. If yes, pls let me know and I will do it via PM or start another thread.

AC, I don't really understand what you meant by blinking on my gear indicator. Is it something you see on your speedometer? I don't remember seeing anything blinking when I shifted gear. Perhaps only at higher RPMs?

Can you also share with us what are some of the major problems that you had encountered with your E46 M? Was it the fuel pump, smg pump or something else. I'm just pre-empting for parts failure although the car just went through a full inspection pack II and came out fine with all worn parts replaced.

Thanks.
 
Re: Where do M drivers meet their Expert Mech's?

The blink of the gear number indicator happens when the gearbox is changing gears and is not yet ready. When the gear is ready, this is indicated with a solid number.

Blink once if you are at 100% throttle.
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Uehtl43zTY]Supercharged E46 M3 0-60 Easy Take Off - YouTube[/ame]

Blinks twice if you are downshifting 0% Throttle.
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ucIzqSrPny4]m3 e46 smg gear change in tunnel - YouTube[/ame]

If I recall, the gear indicator should blink either 2 or 3 times when (slowly)accelerating at 30-40% throttle changing from 1st to 2nd gear. I can't find any youtube clips of slow acceleration from 1st to 2nd.

I had 2 problems with my E46 M3. One was the SMG Feed Pipe and the other was the High Pressure Power Steering Hose (HPPSH)

SMG Feedpipe

The SMG Feedpipe is renown to leak. This feedpipe connects between your SMG reservoir and your SMG pump. The leaks are hard to detect because any hydraulic leakage will be collected by the undertray. This means there will be no oil stains on your garage floor to go "argh somethings not right".

At the time of discovery, my SMG reservoir was empty. I was amaze how my SMG pump survived my 2 years of ownership. The feedpipe is not expensive. Cost $35aud from BMW dealer. Even cheaper from the USA but price doesn't make any sense after you factor in Air Freight.

I can't find the schematics but this is what it looks like. (Source: E46fanatics)

kpvN5.jpg


If I recall, the SMG fluid is Pentosin CHF11S. Don't take my word for it. Consult your BMW Dealer, Parts department.

Location of SMG Reservoir is in the red Circle. The SMG Feedpipe is directly beneath the reservoir. In fact you can feel it if you put your hand underneath the reservoir (when engine is cold!). This can be easily DIY. Simply remove the Intake Elbox and you should see the feedpipe very clearly.

YSAX6.jpg


High Pressured Power Steering Hose

I had a minor leak on the HPPS hose. In fact its not really a leak but more of a case of sweating considering these pipes can hold several hundred PSI when at full pressure. My Powersteering fluid is still relatively full and hence I saw no need to change this.

The HPPS hose is not cheap. BMW Aust quoted me well over $600 + 3 weeks freight time.

Schematic of the Powersteering assembly (Part No. Eight) - (Source: getBMWparts.com)

zkuLY.gif


The cheaper alternative of fixing this is to get someone to reclamp the hose. No guarantees how long it will last.

The pressure hose is located very near the under tray so if there were any leakages, it will be caught by the under tray. The only other way is to manually check your powersteering fluid from time to time. If I recall PS fluid is similar to transmission fluid. Don't take my word for it.

Subframe Crack

Big hoo haa in the US. They had a Class action lawsuit.

BMW 3 Series Class Action Lawsuit Settlement - Girard Gibbs LLP - Consumer Class Action Attorneys | California | New York

It has been said the Subframes on E46 M3s are weak. Back in 07 or 08 I was doing my research before buying my 04 M3 the first thing I did was to have it on a hoist and get a mechanic to inspect the Subframe.

I'm not entirely sure what causes it. There seems to be no correlation between abuse of daily usage. There are drivers who have been to the track month after month who never had such problem and people who use it as a daily have subframe failures. Again, no correlation between high or low mileage.

In Australia there was 1 case I know of who had a crack in Subframe. Daily car, claimed to never have been on the track, at 20,000km +++. This was promptly fixed by BMW Australia using a special foamkit. There was a Service Interval Bulletin (SIB) regarding subframes but I'm not sure under what SIB number.

Jerky Acceleration after Cold Start

Many in the US had this problem. The general consensus was a dying fuel pump. The problem seem to go away after 1-2 minutes of driving. Upon changing the fuel pump, the problem went away. No error code. If I recall the fuel pump must read 5 volts. I had mine changed because I had similar symptoms and "thought" it could be the fuel pump when its not. Cost about $250aud airfreight from US.

In the end, my problem was attributed by no Hydraulic Fluid in my SMG reservoir.

Bonnet Sensors

The Bonnet sensors are said to be notorious for going bad. When inoperative, you can't get into gear. Relatively cheap fix. I've personally never had such problems.

SMG Pump

If you take care of your SMG Pump, I think you'll be fine. If you abuse it day after day, no warm up or cool down, it will fail. I can't believe my SMG pump survived for 2 years with little to no SMG fluid and still going strong today with the current owner.

There are people who have genuine failures and don't abuse their gearbox. This sample group is generally known to be very small.

The ones that report failures may omit certain information on the forum.

A prime example is some guy who had a bearings failure but also some very nice videos of him street racing. However this is not to say that his engine failure is due to street racing.

http://www.bmw-sg.com/forums/bmw-m-owners-club/53770-m3-engine-blow-up-2.html#post695700

I think the above are quite common problems. A quick google and there will easily be threads of several pages relating to them.

I bought my 2004 E46 M3 with about 42,000km in 2008. When I sold it, the odo was 46,000km +3 track days in 2011. Apart from changing the $35 SMG feedpipe, it was fault free.

As long as you take care in warming up, cooling down, proper maintenance. You should be fine.
 
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Re: Where do M drivers meet their Expert Mech's?

Many thanks again for taking valuable time to write these in detail.

I know what you meant by gear number blinking as you shift now. Yes, I notice that too. Just never thought much about why it blinks. Lol. Now I know.

I sent my car to the certified BMW garage 2 months back and did all the detailed checks and replacements necessary. It is called the Inspection II package for M3. SMG fluid, fuel pump were checked and the last owner also changed the SMG pump with the same certified BMW branch. No big issues in the test and so far it drives fine. It seems like a keeper for now. I mainly drive it on weekends so I don't expect it to clock up much mileage. No tracking for me.

However there was one small issue about 3 weeks back. I didn't drive the car for 2 weeks (I went on a biz trip), came back, warmed up the car abit with slow driving for some time to my destination. On my way back home, it was pouring heavily and I revved from 1st gear to about 4k rpm and continued to change gear as per normal. Then I saw the engine check light (amber) came on. There was no loss of power and the car runs as per normal. I continued my way home with no issues. Another couple of drives in the next few days, the light just disappeared by itself. It never came back on again. I ran a check on the other E46 M forums and the possibilities are: faulty exhaust temp sensor, fuel pump and ignition coil. Car still runs fine today with power band across all RPM. But since it didn't happen again, I'm not too bothered. Too busy to send it to the workshop anyway. Have you seen this occurence yourself before?

Cheers.
 
Re: Where do M drivers meet their Expert Mech's?

That's rather strange. Could there have been a loss of traction and DSC that lighted up instead ?

Have a look at the E46 M3 Instrument Cluster.
xOntH.jpg


This is a 2011 740i. CEL is a the symbol you see on the right
f7hi1.jpg


There are a range of problems that could cause the EML to illuminate. Its best that in future if the EML lights up again, do not turn the engine off and see if there are any BMW workshops who can download the error code for you.

If its the EML, the most common problem is either exhaust temp or throttle position sensor. Its best to get your workshop to download the error code in order to pinpoint the problem.
 
Re: Where do M drivers meet their Expert Mech's?

DrK;696250 said:
Oh no no. It wasn't the EML light. It looks something like this as described in what this guy saw. Same icon lited up.

TPS under intake Manifold, any DIYs - Page 3 - BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3)

This icon is also similar to your pic on the 740iL cluster. So this is the CEL light? Meaning exhaust temp sensor or something like that right?

Is your exhaust stock ?

If the CEL lit up and extinguished shortly after, I would not be too worried just yet. Just drive as you usually would and continue to monitor.

In saying that, it may be a tell tail sign your EGT sensor may be on its way out. I'm not saying it is 100% the EGT sensor because without a fault code, it is hard to tell.

On my Evo, when my EGT went out, occasionally the needle on the Defi's EGT gauge will fluctuate momentarily between 0 and 90deg. After a certain period of time it is completely dead.

If the CEL lit up again and you are near a BMW workshop, see if it's possible to drive over and get them to run a diagnostic scan without you shutting your engine. That way the code may still be on the ECU registry.



Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor (See Part No. 5) ---- Source: Realoem.com

Gfvxv.png


Link: RealOEM.com BMW E46 M3 CATALYST/LAMBDA PROBE
 

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