Amplifier
- Thread starter jaskin
- Start date
oneHeadlight
Well-Known Member
MRacer77,
i m using stock headunit. Yup..can add ghost HU , add processor...possibilities are endless.
Carhartt,
just like u, i wanted a simple system, and our budget is the same. I actually spent less than 1.5k.
U can, and prob should do some research. If u wanna cut that phase, cos alot of us went thru the same process b4, then u can take our suggestions, but as the cliche goes, the decision is yours.
for 1.5k, u may have to consider buying some used stuff. My whole set-up is used, and is another forumer i know who is very very pleased with his system.
Assuming u dont wanna disturb the headunit cos of the steering wheel functions, u can look at
1. changing the components.
2. adding a sub
3. get a 4ch amp (though most suggest separate amps for 1 & 2)
budget for installation. Dont get fleeced here !! u will be surprised the price difference. U can get half the price than those quoted by the shops recommended in this forum, and quality no lesser.
Adding a sub doesnt mean u have to cut a hole in the rear rack. Simply remove the rear speakers, which has not much use anyway.
Consider the power in RMS for the components, the sub and the amp. The more power, the cleaner, if everything else is constant.
u can go to the ICE forum but beware, there are many installers who visit that forum...and also this forum..
i m using stock headunit. Yup..can add ghost HU , add processor...possibilities are endless.
Carhartt,
just like u, i wanted a simple system, and our budget is the same. I actually spent less than 1.5k.
U can, and prob should do some research. If u wanna cut that phase, cos alot of us went thru the same process b4, then u can take our suggestions, but as the cliche goes, the decision is yours.
for 1.5k, u may have to consider buying some used stuff. My whole set-up is used, and is another forumer i know who is very very pleased with his system.
Assuming u dont wanna disturb the headunit cos of the steering wheel functions, u can look at
1. changing the components.
2. adding a sub
3. get a 4ch amp (though most suggest separate amps for 1 & 2)
budget for installation. Dont get fleeced here !! u will be surprised the price difference. U can get half the price than those quoted by the shops recommended in this forum, and quality no lesser.
Adding a sub doesnt mean u have to cut a hole in the rear rack. Simply remove the rear speakers, which has not much use anyway.
Consider the power in RMS for the components, the sub and the amp. The more power, the cleaner, if everything else is constant.
u can go to the ICE forum but beware, there are many installers who visit that forum...and also this forum..
emiffy
Well-Known Member
oneHeadlight,
Did you go for a line-level converter (hi-low converter) or does your amp already provide that functionality?
When looking for the subwoofer, almost every shop I went to told me I needed to cut the rear. When I found out about the JL Stealthbox, nobody in Singapore knew what I was talking about
Anyway, in the end, I went with the SoundGate LOC (similiar to the one that Tye proposed), which I bought 2nd-hand off the net; an Alpine V-series 4 channel amp, and front components. Left the rear stock; hoping one day someone would bring in the Stealthbox.
Did you go for a line-level converter (hi-low converter) or does your amp already provide that functionality?
When looking for the subwoofer, almost every shop I went to told me I needed to cut the rear. When I found out about the JL Stealthbox, nobody in Singapore knew what I was talking about
Anyway, in the end, I went with the SoundGate LOC (similiar to the one that Tye proposed), which I bought 2nd-hand off the net; an Alpine V-series 4 channel amp, and front components. Left the rear stock; hoping one day someone would bring in the Stealthbox.
Stealthbox can buy 2nd hand mah on e46. Anyway did you try ecarhifi he imports the JL audio stuff
Damn pissed. The MPs wanted to check the car boot today. Specifically the spare tire compartment. But my sub and the huge box is there so Had to move it for them. The morons nearly broke the small lever that holds up the boot floor board.
Damn pissed. The MPs wanted to check the car boot today. Specifically the spare tire compartment. But my sub and the huge box is there so Had to move it for them. The morons nearly broke the small lever that holds up the boot floor board.
oneHeadlight
Well-Known Member
emiffy,
Sorry, i didnt realise u sent me msgs till now, thats why i didnt reply to them. I guess its too late liao What components did u get in the end ? What is the rating for the amps ?
My amps can take in high output through a sort-of converter/adapter thingy. Problem is, i bought two used amps, both same make and model, but i only hv one of the abovementioned converter. I ended up using two hi-lo converters, and therefore RCA cables cos (1) it didnt cost much, and (2) wud look strange if i used one amp takes in high input, the other RCA and (3) my installer say its better.
AS for your sub, u have basically 4 options
(a) free-air sub, which most likely u will have to cut the metal rear rack
(b) Box-type sub, dont cut anything.
(c) box-type sub, cut one small hole to let the bass travel
(d) box-type sub, remove the rear speakers
Initially, i wanted (a) cos of space, but after research, i went for (d). I think free-air has its limitations. I also reckon that since i dont play golf, dont carry a luggage everyday, and even if i do, the sub box can simply be unplugged and removed. Just dont have so much bass for that day only ma..
I may appear to know alot, but frankly i dont in terms of technical knowledge la, but i've learnt jus enough to be able to share cos i feel that many installers are out to kill us. They sell u things that u dont need, or charge u a price that is totally crazy.
Our headunit is not ideal, but it suffice for me now (i stress NOW. I was lucky that i get to know this DIY guy who helped tuned for award winning cars at competitions. SOmething he told me helps me not get into the blackhole mentioned here...and ya, the blackhole does exist !! I m fighting very hard cos i've heard their cars, and i can tell u.... its as if the band is playing on your dash board.
hope it helps... i will jus share watever i know. but hor....no guarantee that i am right ya...
Sorry, i didnt realise u sent me msgs till now, thats why i didnt reply to them. I guess its too late liao
What components did u get in the end ? What is the rating for the amps ?My amps can take in high output through a sort-of converter/adapter thingy. Problem is, i bought two used amps, both same make and model, but i only hv one of the abovementioned converter. I ended up using two hi-lo converters, and therefore RCA cables cos (1) it didnt cost much, and (2) wud look strange if i used one amp takes in high input, the other RCA and (3) my installer say its better.
AS for your sub, u have basically 4 options
(a) free-air sub, which most likely u will have to cut the metal rear rack
(b) Box-type sub, dont cut anything.
(c) box-type sub, cut one small hole to let the bass travel
(d) box-type sub, remove the rear speakers
Initially, i wanted (a) cos of space, but after research, i went for (d). I think free-air has its limitations. I also reckon that since i dont play golf, dont carry a luggage everyday, and even if i do, the sub box can simply be unplugged and removed. Just dont have so much bass for that day only ma..
I may appear to know alot, but frankly i dont in terms of technical knowledge la, but i've learnt jus enough to be able to share cos i feel that many installers are out to kill us. They sell u things that u dont need, or charge u a price that is totally crazy.
Our headunit is not ideal, but it suffice for me now (i stress NOW
. I was lucky that i get to know this DIY guy who helped tuned for award winning cars at competitions. SOmething he told me helps me not get into the blackhole mentioned here...and ya, the blackhole does exist !! I m fighting very hard cos i've heard their cars, and i can tell u.... its as if the band is playing on your dash board. hope it helps... i will jus share watever i know. but hor....no guarantee that i am right ya...
Carhartt
Well-Known Member
hmm...have done some research....think i have come to an idea of what to do with the audio system....
1. Keeping the Head Unit. ( Cos i want to get the iPod plugs )
2. Changing the front speakers and tweeters to component speakers with programmable crossover.
3. replacing the rear speakers with 2 subs. ( anyone knows where to get the JL stealth box? )
4. Use a 4 channel amp to power the whole system.
Anyone has any brands to recommend to import directly from overseas??.
If i but the componenets.....can i get it installed at any car audio shops?
looking at the Rockford Fosgate Punch P4004 as an amp...
anyone tried it before??
1. Keeping the Head Unit. ( Cos i want to get the iPod plugs )
2. Changing the front speakers and tweeters to component speakers with programmable crossover.
3. replacing the rear speakers with 2 subs. ( anyone knows where to get the JL stealth box? )
4. Use a 4 channel amp to power the whole system.
Anyone has any brands to recommend to import directly from overseas??.
If i but the componenets.....can i get it installed at any car audio shops?
looking at the Rockford Fosgate Punch P4004 as an amp...
anyone tried it before??
Can why not they will just charge you installation. Anyways, I think RF stuff not very good. Try looking at Phoenix Gold, Orion and the like. I think some Xtant amps don't requite a hi-lo adapter.
BTW just so you know the stock HU is quite bad. I'm planning on upgrading mine soon. The JL Stealthbox isn't very popular in SG I think. But you can try ecarhifi, they might carry it or you can prowl e46fanatics for a used set.
Which front speakers you planning on using?
Make sure to use vpostusa when shipping the amps. Save some import hassle.
BTW just so you know the stock HU is quite bad. I'm planning on upgrading mine soon. The JL Stealthbox isn't very popular in SG I think. But you can try ecarhifi, they might carry it or you can prowl e46fanatics for a used set.
Which front speakers you planning on using?
Make sure to use vpostusa when shipping the amps. Save some import hassle.
oneHeadlight
Well-Known Member
Its always suggested by enthusiast to use separate amp for the sub, cos sub are power hungry. a 4ch may not be able to deliver the amount of power required for the sub. And u are even considering two subs, which is even more rms intensive.
I suggest u get one 12" sub instead of two. Use a 2 ch for the front components, use another 2 ch for the sub. AS u progress, u prob will either add some processor or change the headunit.
RF stuff are not amongst the better ones, not that its bad. I think as jaskin mentioned, Orion is a good brand. There are less glamourous brand like autotek, audison but value for money. I heard recently that PG newer range not as good, not sure how true.
jaskin,
i went to this shop recently, they claim they can retain the remote on the steering even if u change the HU.
I suggest u get one 12" sub instead of two. Use a 2 ch for the front components, use another 2 ch for the sub. AS u progress, u prob will either add some processor or change the headunit.
RF stuff are not amongst the better ones, not that its bad. I think as jaskin mentioned, Orion is a good brand. There are less glamourous brand like autotek, audison but value for money. I heard recently that PG newer range not as good, not sure how true.
jaskin,
i went to this shop recently, they claim they can retain the remote on the steering even if u change the HU.
Carhartt
Well-Known Member
i got my idea from this website.
They using just a 4 cahnnel amp to power the component speakers and 2 8'inch subs
http://www.eurotuner.com/techarticles/67320/index.html
They using just a 4 cahnnel amp to power the component speakers and 2 8'inch subs
http://www.eurotuner.com/techarticles/67320/index.html
you can retain the remote controls with this http://www.autotoys.com/x/catalog/UNIVERSAL_STEERING_WHEEL_CONTROL_BY_PAC_SWIX_p_597.html
oneHeadlight
Well-Known Member
Carhartt,
U can use a 4ch amp, no doubt. The concern is the power.
Assuming u need only 100rms for each sub , and u want 2 subs.
so u need 100rms x 4ch (including 2 for components) at 4ohms, which is superhard to find, and u are gonna pay an arm and most prob a leg.
FOr subs, most people go for two 10" or one 12". The argument is endless. I m using one 12" cos my sifu say enuf.
As suggested by many here, take a listen to some forumers' car. There are many nice and friendly people here. But bear in mind, different components, amps, and sub, and installation can yield different results.
U can use a 4ch amp, no doubt. The concern is the power.
Assuming u need only 100rms for each sub , and u want 2 subs.
so u need 100rms x 4ch (including 2 for components) at 4ohms, which is superhard to find, and u are gonna pay an arm and most prob a leg.
FOr subs, most people go for two 10" or one 12". The argument is endless. I m using one 12" cos my sifu say enuf.
As suggested by many here, take a listen to some forumers' car. There are many nice and friendly people here. But bear in mind, different components, amps, and sub, and installation can yield different results.
oneHeadlight
Well-Known Member
jaskin,
thanks mate. So u are gonna do it ? Alright ! Can i audition after u've done it ? already got installer in mind ?
thanks mate. So u are gonna do it ? Alright ! Can i audition after u've done it ? already got installer in mind ?
No... I've been derailed to Home audio recently... http://htpcnews.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=6970oneHeadlight said:
oneHeadlight
Well-Known Member
jaskin,
wa...even more expensive. but nice. My "sifu" uses car audio for home audio...also very nice..
wa...even more expensive. but nice. My "sifu" uses car audio for home audio...also very nice..
