Gettin some P.I.M.P. bass in my ride

Free air is when you mount the subs on the rear panel behind the seats. The entire boot becomes the enclosure.

For really kick arse, hair follicle moving bass, Get a kicker 12" sealed box sub and juice the sucker with 200W - 400W RMS of good clean power. Chances are the sucker will advertise your arrival everytime you drive.

Would probably set you back by about $1k or so depending on the availability of line level signals and the type of wires you wanna use. A point to note when running sub RCA cables is to use normal cables. You will not hear the difference and any interference noise cannot be heard.

Cheers
 
Dude, free air essentially means subs without the box. I think. Or it could mean letting plenty rip from the crack. A more subtle term would be flatulent. hahahaha

There was an article from a thread not too long ago about some JL stealth boxes thats available for 2 8 inch subs. Go check it out homie!

Alternatively, you could rely on ported boxes that will give you more reflex on your bass.

Tat will probably come close to pimping ur bass for entry standards.
Last option you could head to US, audition wif a sad story and have the West Coast Dudes aka Xzibit pimp ur ride. Just joking. But if u do catch it on MTV, they do some hardcore pimping man. One of my fav TV program.

Maybe a simple bass tube set-up like the baazookas might do the trick. Get an active bass tube. Amp and sub integrated into one. Should cost you max $500+ (including installation).

Good luck wif ur pimping.
 
MaVrk said:
Last option you could head to US, audition wif a sad story and have the West Coast Dudes aka Xzibit pimp ur ride. Just joking. But if u do catch it on MTV, they do some hardcore pimping man. One of my fav TV program.
Click to expand...

Now THAT is a bloody EXCELLENT idea!

My ultimate pimp mobile would still be the Hummer H2s.... Have you watched "Be Cool" those Hummers can PIMP me anytime anywhere!
 
Yep... did my friend's Rav4 with a Rockford 4x100w amp and the above mentioned woofer. Used the HU original amp to power the rear fills (6" co-axial). Front was Rockford 6" component. The amp drove the front speakers through the passive crossovers and the rear channels were bridged to power the sub.

During each bass note, her hair was bloody moving. Oh yeah, she also rides a harley d too so needless to say she was jumping for joy..
 
Bro, I'm using 2x10" free air subs!! Pretty good so far, hair can stand also!!

Next time check out my way of installation yah, it all depends on wat amp & brand of sub ur budget permits U.... :twisted:

'The Great White'
 
Wilson,hearing your gruppe M roar also can make hair stand and other areas wet..... :) :) :)
 
What's the budget? Decent bass would start from 1k onwards if buying new equipment, if you're talking about something with good punch.

Choose subs with good sensitivity, and you can get away with less power.

Freeair is bit risky. Freeair application needs more power to control the unbaffled cone excursions, and you may be easily disappointed when you crank up the volume and the bass starts to distort. But then again, if you get a sub that is appropriately designed for freeair, you can get pretty decent bass too. Be prepared to cut the metal below your speaker board though. May affect export prices? I don't know.

Best control comes from sealed box. This is for best sound quality, with a flatter frequency response. Easiest to get right, and easy to modify the effect by stuffing polyfill inside the box to change its perceived volume. Best power handling too.

For max punch and efficiency, you may want to consider a ported box. If the ports are tuned properly.. OMG... we're talking about very very hard punches. But have to be careful with box design, coz its not easy to get the correct combo of box size vs port diameter vs port length. Some badly designed ported boxes can come across as boomy in bass...

For sub bass on a budget, go with the best "watt for dollar" amp you can find. I tend to agree with Yendor on cables, no need the best.

One more note.. if you can find used amps and sub+box, you can definitely save quite a bit!
 
Would you prefer to cut the spk board and metal below to have it freeair, or you don't mind 2 woofers in a sealed box sitting in yr boot?

What is the existing setup now? You already got upgraded amps and speakers? Reason for my asking is that yr fronts needs to be upgraded... if not hor.. it will be like a swimming in a wave pool... and then the bass will come like a tsunami.
 
oneHeadlight said:
yendor, u are an installer ?
Click to expand...

Sorry bro, I install systems for friends on "kum Ching" basis. Usually close friends and gals....
 
barry,

didn't know you looking for advice on ICE setup.
could have showed you in the afternoon today.

my kind of music i listen are mainly new age & classical. at time Jazz.

my setup is as follow.

front
1 pair of dynaudio system 240 GT 6.5" driven with
1 audison LR Super current 280 2 X 80 watt.

rear
1 pair of dynaudio 8" mid-sub driven with
1 PPI PCX 1.500 1 X 500 watt.

no cutting of rear metal board/plate.
did a rear custom board to house the 2 X 8" mid-sub. hence using the orginal speaker cut-out to stream sound into the cabin.
and a console box to house the amps & cap.

as for bass diff maker of the sub produces diff kind or quality of sound.

the best is to let your ears be the judge. try/test as many diff setup as possible, i am sure there will be many choices for you to sample around during meetups.

let me know if you intrested for a audition on my ride.

thanks for the getting the 'cone' for me. :drool:

bt
 
tbt

When you removed the original spk cut-out to allow the bass in the car, did you open up the speaker deck on top? If not the top is still covered right? The 8" would be pumping upwards directly onto the speaker board... you may get vibrations?
 
__iceman__ said:
tbt

When you removed the original spk cut-out to allow the bass in the car, did you open up the speaker deck on top? If not the top is still covered right? The 8" would be pumping upwards directly onto the speaker board... you may get vibrations?
Click to expand...

yes the installer did remove and sound proof the speaker top deck & lower deck(which is the custom speaker deck from the boot underside, you will not longer see the metal part of the underside, so now the whole of the boot interior is cover up, unlike the OEM boot only the top part of the boot you can see the metal part.)

and remove the cardboard cup holder for the stock speaker, hence retaining the OEM look. bass sounds are streaming into the cabin via the stock speaker hole.

vibrations ? IMHO i don't think so there are any. :)

i may not explain it well enough, it is best to see & hear for yourself.

you are welcome to take look on the next meetup.

bt
 
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