Mechatronics solenoid replacement for ol' E60

Citizen69

Well-Known Member
Been driving the 2008 E60 for the past 3-4 years. Had some persistent gear related issues intermittently and thus decided to go for the plunge despite having only 2 years left in the COE.

Read up quite a fair bit on the mechatronics/gear related stuff and realised that quite a fair bit of the 'issues' that I had been experiencing are all somehow linked to the mechatronics.

1. Shifting of gear from P -> D or D ->R or to P will sometimes have loud metal clanking sound coupled with car jerk.

2. Coming to a stop at traffic junctions will have a slight jerk just prior to stopping, as the transmission changes down to first gear. Sometimes the car will even vibrate and then shift to N by itself and engine cuts off.

3. Overtaking was also slightly slower as the gears took an extra fraction of a second to engage after stepping on the throttle.

4. Occasionally, upon starting of engine and moving off, the engine will tend to rev up with the throttle, but the gear does not seem to to change, and when it does, the car will jerk or vibrate suddenly as it shifts gear, due to the revolution already quite high.

5. You have the message "Transmission Faulty" when you start off and totally no power. Message disappear and car appear normal when you off and restart the engine.

As the COE only left 2 years, and unwilling to get a totally new mechatronics set, upon discussion with my fav workshop managers Gavin and Randy, I decided to change the solenoids, sealing sleeves, mechatronics plate and pistons. (with tons of AT fluid!)

The workshop was able to complete the overhaul within a day and upon collection, the first feel of the drive was like, "Woah! Why did'nt I get these changed a year or 2 earlier!??!"

When I had the car, the mileage was like 90K, and some of the above issues were already there. Being a first time BMW owner/driver, I thought it was normal (lol). Furthermore, I drive on highway quite often so did'nt really have lots of stop starts(gear shifts) and thus the above issues were not very common. Now at 190K mileage, the effect of the change is phenomenal (for me, at least) and my only regret was not getting it serviced earlier so as to enjoy the ride for a longer period while the COE lasts.

Now the shifting of gear from P to D to R or back to P, it is quiet, seamless and a total contrast to my past 3-4 years of ownership.

I would like to state that this solution may not work for all cars as it could be the mechatronics template (the main metallic rectangle shape thingy) or the mechanical parts of the gearbox that is failing, and I am taking a risk here just to change the most obvious parts.

I would like to thank Gavin, Randy and the team at Revol of their professionalism and expertise in helping resolve the issues plaguing me.

I guess I can now enjoy the 'real' feel of a Beemer performance, at least for the final 2 years....
 
Possible to pm the cost as I'm having very similar issue and I'm also 2008 e60.
Already PM you.

So far already 5 persons asked for PM!!! Apparently quite a common issue.... must ask for recommendation or commission fees... lol lol
 
Been driving the 2008 E60 for the past 3-4 years. Had some persistent gear related issues intermittently and thus decided to go for the plunge despite having only 2 years left in the COE.

Read up quite a fair bit on the mechatronics/gear related stuff and realised that quite a fair bit of the 'issues' that I had been experiencing are all somehow linked to the mechatronics.

1. Shifting of gear from P -> D or D ->R or to P will sometimes have loud metal clanking sound coupled with car jerk.

2. Coming to a stop at traffic junctions will have a slight jerk just prior to stopping, as the transmission changes down to first gear. Sometimes the car will even vibrate and then shift to N by itself and engine cuts off.

3. Overtaking was also slightly slower as the gears took an extra fraction of a second to engage after stepping on the throttle.

4. Occasionally, upon starting of engine and moving off, the engine will tend to rev up with the throttle, but the gear does not seem to to change, and when it does, the car will jerk or vibrate suddenly as it shifts gear, due to the revolution already quite high.

5. You have the message "Transmission Faulty" when you start off and totally no power. Message disappear and car appear normal when you off and restart the engine.

As the COE only left 2 years, and unwilling to get a totally new mechatronics set, upon discussion with my fav workshop managers Gavin and Randy, I decided to change the solenoids, sealing sleeves, mechatronics plate and pistons. (with tons of AT fluid!)

The workshop was able to complete the overhaul within a day and upon collection, the first feel of the drive was like, "Woah! Why did'nt I get these changed a year or 2 earlier!??!"

When I had the car, the mileage was like 90K, and some of the above issues were already there. Being a first time BMW owner/driver, I thought it was normal (lol). Furthermore, I drive on highway quite often so did'nt really have lots of stop starts(gear shifts) and thus the above issues were not very common. Now at 190K mileage, the effect of the change is phenomenal (for me, at least) and my only regret was not getting it serviced earlier so as to enjoy the ride for a longer period while the COE lasts.

Now the shifting of gear from P to D to R or back to P, it is quiet, seamless and a total contrast to my past 3-4 years of ownership.

I would like to state that this solution may not work for all cars as it could be the mechatronics template (the main metallic rectangle shape thingy) or the mechanical parts of the gearbox that is failing, and I am taking a risk here just to change the most obvious parts.

I would like to thank Gavin, Randy and the team at Revol of their professionalism and expertise in helping resolve the issues plaguing me.

I guess I can now enjoy the 'real' feel of a Beemer performance, at least for the final 2 years....
Mind to share the cost?
 
Will be sharing the cost here since i will not be around the forum much


AUTO FLUID (6HP) (1 LITRE) 9 LITRE @20.00/litre = 180.00
VALVE BODY 6HP 19Z R/KIT (11PCS) @650/set = 650.00
(AKA SOLENOIDS)
OIL PAN W/FILTER/SEAL 6HP19Z @100.00/ea = 100.00
BMW SEALING SLEEVE(PLASTIC) -> THE FIGURE OF 8 SEAL @24/ea = 24.00
ADAPTER -> ROUND CYLINDER SEAL @14.00/ea = 14.00
SEALING SLEEVE A 6HP 2 PC @14.00/ea = 28.00
SEALING SLEEVE B 6HP 1 PC @14.00/ea = 14.00
SEALING SLEEVE C 6HP 1 PC @14.00/ea = 14.00

The above bought at stockist, gotta add GST = S$1095.68

Another 2 items not available at stockist, so the workshop got it on my behalf:
Cant remember the name but some pistons and a metal PCB plate or something like that : S$300

Labour S$700

Total cost : S$2095.68

All done within a day at one of the trusted Site sponsor.
Actually they recommended to change the full mechatronics (which included the solenoids, seals and all) but only left 2 years, so I declined

But note that as I'm getting all the parts myself and only changing the solenoids, there was no warranty from the sponsor

Sponsor Quoted S$3.2K for full mecha + labour but without ATF (parts they supply)
Stockist full mecha was S$1.4K, without ATF, Oil Pan, excluding GST
Do note that these are 2016 prices.

However, if you have left more than 3 years or so, i would fully recommend changing the whole set of of mechatronics rather than just the solenoids.
=>S$3200 + ATF S$180

the improvement will be much better and should definitely last longer.

Cheers and good luck!
 
Hi,
Very interesting read, and I'm encountering similar symptoms on my other car, of a different brand.
I'm hoping to find a solution for it.

Might I ask, how did you know it was due to this, and how did you get the part numbers.
Your technical knowledge is good and I hope to learn for my car.

Also, are there any codings required?

Best regards.
 
Hi,
Very interesting read, and I'm encountering similar symptoms on my other car, of a different brand.
I'm hoping to find a solution for it.

Might I ask, how did you know it was due to this, and how did you get the part numbers.
Your technical knowledge is good and I hope to learn for my car.

Also, are there any codings required?

Best regards.
Hi,
Basically it was through lots of browsing on the web and forums whereas lots of similar symptoms with the E60 worldwide and majority of them were 'solved' by either changing the whole MU or just solenoids. Mind you, its only in Singapore where cars on average do not 'last' more than 10 years whereby the other non-singapore owners DIY and share their own experiences as they keep their cars for more than 15 years.

Just ask your fav stockist, they should have info on what parts are required to change. I believe codings are required but i left it to the workshop to settle.

Unfortunately for me, the solenoids only lasted a year as my mileage was at 210K and I think the MU was a goner already. To think that the valve body can last 200K, I think thats quite an achievement by itself!!
 

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