Need advice for stiff suspension problem

O

oldmanian

Active Member
Hi guys,

Bought a 2nd hand e65 recently.
Found the ride to be uncomfortable due to hard rear suspension.

Brought to PM for service and request them to check suspension.

RM just brush it off claiming it was due to my 22" rims, suspension needs to be higher thus higher air pressure required resulted in the stiff ride. As long as suspension doesn't slump, it is working properly.
Any truth?
To me, it doesn't make sense that a car designed for comfort becomes so uncomfortable due to 22" rims.
Could it be an installation problem of the 3rd party suspension by previous owner?

Nevertheless, found ride to be uncomfortable and would like seek opinions of experience bros here what are my options.

Any suspension specialist workshop that you can recommend for consultation?

Thanks in advance for your advice.
 
22" would have a lot less rubber around the rim. The tire does play a huge role in absorbing road udulations ....
 
22" is BIG. If you have a tire shop friend, maybe try fitting a set of 2nd hand 17-18" and test them out for a week to feel the difference?
 
Codewerx said:
22" would have a lot less rubber around the rim. The tire does play a huge role in absorbing road udulations ....
Click to expand...

my apologies . Rims 20", not 22".
wheel specs as follows;
Front: 255/45 R20
Rear: 285/35 ZR20

Is the tyre specs have comfortable profile to absorb road undulations?
 
Last edited:
oldmanian said:
Don't have tyre shop friend leh.
any workshop that rents rims and tyres so I can try out? :)
Click to expand...

Try what ac323 suggested with your wits and bargaining skills. Check around the few 'popular' tyre shops and ask them whether do they have a 2nd hand rim with tyres that can fit your model for a week with your 22" inch to leave there as collateral. Discuss on the possibility of trade in and of course with the intention to purchase brand new tyres if suitable. I'm sure you can work out something.

Alternatively during your next servicing, ask the mechanic (other than previous PML) what is wrong with the hard ride and hear what they have to say. It could be other issues and not wholly associated with the 22".

Good luck!
 
Citizen69 said:
It could be other issues and not wholly associated with the 22".

Good luck!
Click to expand...

Yes, was thinking of getting a 2nd opinion on the suspension setup b4 the tyre trial.

Any workshop that specializes in suspension to recommend?
 
Last edited:
oldmanian said:
Yes, was thinking of getting a 2nd opinion on the suspension setup b4 the tyre trial.

Any workshop that specializes in suspension to recommend?
Click to expand...

Just a suggestion - Look at the tyre pressure first ....

 
Codewerx said:
Just a suggestion - Look at the tyre pressure first ....

Click to expand...

Thank bro Codewerx for your suggestion.

Brought car down to workshop.
Mechanic gave afew bounce on the car boot and told me without a doubt the rear air suspension oil leaked. Has air to support car but no oil to absorb the shocks.
Still wondering why the BMW SA brush it off without proper checks... :-(

Changed a pair of rear suspension (painful...$), and the car is all good. Well almost.
After driving off, the Brake Failure and the Flat Tyre error popped up.
Contacted workshop but told me to go down for checks after CNY as they are closed.

Anybody know if the cause of the errors?
Are errors linked to the suspensions or installation?
 
Last edited:
Flat Tyre can check by yourself. Go pump air and see which is the affected tyre. Maybe just suay, kana nail. If no leakage, then probably sensor issue.

Do you experience braking issues for slow and fast stops? If not, then also probably sensor issue.

If both are sensor issues, it could be in the midst of changing the suspension, the sensors got damaged or dislodged and cannot function well.

Good luck and HUAT AH!
 
Citizen69 said:
If both are sensor issues, it could be in the midst of changing the suspension, the sensors got damaged or dislodged and cannot function well.
Click to expand...

Workshop said the speed sensors was damaged and was told to pay for it as it due to "wear and tear"...hmmm...

Have you guys ever experienced, when you send in you car for repair for a small part and was quoted a reasonable price; Subsequently, they call you to tell you need to change other parts because they are damaged as well ?
If you agree, it cost more than your expectation of initial repair.
If you don't, you wonder what the mechanic may do to you car...
The last time I disagreed with another workshop, i realised my oil pump was leaking after 1 week.....
The oil pump was not part of the suggested change.

Adding up cost of all repair, would it have been cheaper overall to just do servicing at PML (assuming the mechanics are not as motivated to push repairs works since already charge a premium and hearsay they even sub out works to nearby workshops)?

No malicious intent here, just sharing my thoughts and wonder if bros here have any tips for a better experience.
 
Last edited:
oldmanian said:
Workshop said the speed sensors was damaged and was told to pay for it as it due to "wear and tear"...hmmm...

Have you guys ever experienced, when you send in you car for repair for a small part and was quoted a reasonable price; Subsequently, they call you to tell you need to change other parts because they are damaged as well ?
If you agree, it cost more than your expectation of initial repair.
If you don't, you wonder what the mechanic may do to you car...
The last time I disagreed with another workshop, i realised my oil pump was leaking after 1 week.....
The oil pump was not part of the suggested change.

Adding up cost of all repair, would it have been cheaper overall to just do servicing at PML (assuming the mechanics are not as motivated to push repairs works since already charge a premium and hearsay they even sub out works to nearby workshops)?

No malicious intent here, just sharing my thoughts and wonder if bros here have any tips for a better experience.
Click to expand...

Haha, ALWAYS happen ever since I switched from Jap to BMW cars.... go WS for 1 item, they will mention other items need to change or in bad shape. I tend to look from the angle that the WS will always perform the 1001 checks points on all vehicles that come into their workshop. This is part of their business strategy and customer service to warn owners to pre-empt any problems later, which is good.

Its very normal for all mechanical and electronic stuffs. When we change a faulty gasket, we may need to move some other parts aside, or dismantle something first. Once shifted from the previous stable position, the worn rubber may crack up, or become loose etc and hey presto, new problem arises.

I have only visited site sponsors with the Beemer and so far, I find their recommendations for other related/unrelated parts to be fair and justifiable. If you are like me, someone who has shallow pockets and an interest to know what the physical part looks like, I will tell them that I will consider repairing what they recommended during the next visit.

Prior to next visit, I will visit ES, procure the major items, and hand them over to the site sponsor WS and they will gladly get them changed, no problem at all. At least I know that what I bought from ES is original. Even if it is OEM from ES, I know that I will be paying OEM price for them.

From my experience so far, PML has never recommended to change anything else outside of the affected items. When the mileage schedule is up, they will just change, whether faulty or not. At least you have a piece of mind here as the cost is already made known, albeit higher than most.

cheers
 
Citizen69 said:
Haha, ALWAYS happen ever since I switched from Jap to BMW cars.... go WS for 1 item, they will mention other items need to change or in bad shape. I tend to look from the angle that the WS will always perform the 1001 checks points on all vehicles that come into their workshop. This is part of their business strategy and customer service to warn owners to pre-empt any problems later, which is good.

Its very normal for all mechanical and electronic stuffs. When we change a faulty gasket, we may need to move some other parts aside, or dismantle something first. Once shifted from the previous stable position, the worn rubber may crack up, or become loose etc and hey presto, new problem arises.

I have only visited site sponsors with the Beemer and so far, I find their recommendations for other related/unrelated parts to be fair and justifiable. If you are like me, someone who has shallow pockets and an interest to know what the physical part looks like, I will tell them that I will consider repairing what they recommended during the next visit.

Prior to next visit, I will visit ES, procure the major items, and hand them over to the site sponsor WS and they will gladly get them changed, no problem at all. At least I know that what I bought from ES is original. Even if it is OEM from ES, I know that I will be paying OEM price for them.

From my experience so far, PML has never recommended to change anything else outside of the affected items. When the mileage schedule is up, they will just change, whether faulty or not. At least you have a piece of mind here as the cost is already made known, albeit higher than most.

cheers
Click to expand...

Ju
Citizen69 said:
Prior to next visit, I will visit ES, procure the major items, and hand them over to the site sponsor WS and they will gladly get them changed, no problem at all. At least I know that what I bought from ES is original. Even if it is OEM from ES, I know that I will be paying OEM price for them.

cheers
Click to expand...

Same experience. Never had these problem with my Nissan Cefiros. :)

I asked workshop about if they can just charge for labour if I brought my own parts. The answer was that they only allow if their supplier don't carry those parts ...
Win already lor.

Anyway, right after changing the Speed Sensor, my passenger side window cannot close after winding down. Went back after a few days and was told the window gears will cost $600++ to replace...
I casually ask about the fact that my speed sensor and window broke down immediately after the each repair works but was told my car is old...

1 week after the window repair, no obvious breakdowns but thought my front suspension somewhat different because I go over a road hump everyday on way home. Also, I was more sensitive recent months as my rear suspensions shocks gave way recent months.
The front don't seem to absorb shocks as well as before but can't see and leak stains on suspension. Any tips on how to tell if suspensions are not working well?

I'm getting tire with all these to and fro the workshop... not just money and time, but this nagging feeling wondering if I'm have been taken for a ride.
Obviously I have no evidence of misdeeds.
Thinking back, I was not a difficult customer as I took all their recommended repairs. All I asked them for, was the cheapest possible options.

What do you guys think?
Pure coincidence that my car parts break down one after the other right after each repair work, or it is a standard practice for workshops to make sure you are a return customer?
Does workshop deserve the benefit of doubt?
 
Last edited:
Did you stand there and watch what the mechanic do? Depending your car condition, those parts may well be failing one after another. Don't compare jap vs conti, the wear and tear for latter is heavier, way much heavier. Can't take the repair bills, change back to jap ride lol or buy new with warranty from PML


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
oldmanian said:
Ju


Same experience. Never had these problem with my Nissan Cefiros. :)

I asked workshop about if they can just charge for labour if I brought my own parts. The answer was that they only allow if their supplier don't carry those parts ...
Win already lor.

Anyway, right after changing the Speed Sensor, my passenger side window cannot close after winding down. Went back after a few days and was told the window gears will cost $600++ to replace...
I casually ask about the fact that my speed sensor and window broke down immediately after the each repair works but was told my car is old...

1 week after the window repair, no obvious breakdowns but thought my front suspension somewhat different because I go over a road hump everyday on way home. Also, I was more sensitive recent months as my rear suspensions shocks gave way recent months.
The front don't seem to absorb shocks as well as before but can't see and leak stains on suspension. Any tips on how to tell if suspensions are not working well?

I'm getting tire with all these to and fro the workshop... not just money and time, but this nagging feeling wondering if I'm have been taken for a ride.
Obviously I have no evidence of misdeeds.
Thinking back, I was not a difficult customer as I took all their recommended repairs. All I asked them for, was the cheapest possible options.

What do you guys think?
Pure coincidence that my car parts break down one after the other right after each repair work, or it is a standard practice for workshops to make sure you are a return customer?
Does workshop deserve the benefit of doubt?
Click to expand...

About the window - encountered a couple of times where it will not roll up or down after some repairs.

It just has to be reinitialised with some scripts - one of those nuances that I cannot explain why but it happens. Same thing with some blown light bulbs ... it will never light up till I run some of the scripts from my laptop.

The e65 electronics is pretty sensitive with over 30 ecus in there. Plus the age .... Navigating it for diagnosis or repair is like walking through a minefield at times.
 
So far the site sponsors are ok in their service and workmanship for me, go try them if you have not. Its like a 2nd opinion!
 
Thanks all for your advise.

Current workshop is already a site sponsor here.
Will check with the rest. :)

BTW, any tips on how to check if suspensions are working / damaged?
 
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