Need advice on f10 523i - gearbox problem?

[Kim Law]

I went to Tony of Codewerkz, apparently the best I could find in terms of BMW software expert

Even he could not fix the tip-in delay

However by maxing the DME settings via a high-level adataption, at least the acceleration is slightly better

I would say right now I'm used to the driving. It's definitely not linear or perfect, and there's still tip-in, but by pressing down the pedal harder and adapting to the car, I guess I can live with it...

I strongly suggest that you test-drive the car before buying. Even for 520 vs 523, test drive both to see what u prefer. Cuz 520 is 4-cylinder but it has turbo, 523 has no turbo

Best of luck

 

[Kim Law]

Bro

Have you considered this could be GB hardware problem? ZF GB problem is white well documented. Mine is fixed after GB been replaced.

 

[F10bmw1984]

Hello all. 2012 535i with same symptoms. Goes away completely and usually one day after the pedal reset trick it comes back. Hoping its not mechanical. Car is perfect after 10 mph.

 

[Citizen69]

Hello all. 2012 535i with same symptoms. Goes away completely and usually one day after the pedal reset trick it comes back. Hoping its not mechanical. Car is perfect after 10 mph.

Yep, mostly like the solenoids for 1-2 gear has gone kaput. Since yours is a 2012 with 4 years to go, I would suggest changing the whole mechatronics rather than just the solenoids.

 

[clemgoh]

Yep, mostly like the solenoids for 1-2 gear has gone kaput. Since yours is a 2012 with 4 years to go, I would suggest changing the whole mechatronics rather than just the solenoids.

Suggest you replace the rubber seals first in the valvebody and see how it goes. Cheaper option first. To retain pressure.

See file attached.
For zf sealing sleeve. mechatronic adapter and sleeve kit. All the rubber seals to retain pressure. It works for me. Cheaper too than to jump into solenoids replacement

 

[clemgoh]

Yep, mostly like the solenoids for 1-2 gear has gone kaput. Since yours is a 2012 with 4 years to go, I would suggest changing the whole mechatronics rather than just the solenoids.

Replace rubber seals first see
kit /
sleeve
and adapter

 

[clemgoh]

Example of transmission seals to replace around 60,000km. My view and experience.

Depending on your gear box model. Zf and GM have different ones.
Replace along w atf change when you do it
Recommend around 40000-50000km actually

 

[Kim Law]

Example of transmission seals to replace around 60,000km. My view and experience.

Depending on your gear box model. Zf and GM have different ones.
Replace along w atf change when you do it
Recommend around 40000-50000km actually

Hi Bro

Just want to revisit the old thread, your mentioning replaced the seal, is it done same time as the atf change? Can pm me recommend the WS? My gearbox was replaced at around 60K under partial warranty. These few weeks I noticed the jerking problem seems to come back after driving off Albeit small jerks, I am thinking is it time to change the atf and filter and the rubber seal you had mentioned?

My previous experience on reset throttle thing never work and PML replaced the Whole GB solved it.

My mileage is now 118K, F10523.
Many thanks and appreciate your feedback.
Any bro out there please comment.

 

[JollyKids]

Apologies for bringing up old thread, but recently my F10 523i also encountered similar issues. When stationary in P gear, I put it into D, it gives a jerk before moving off. Spoken to some Drivers, they mentioned could be the seal issues. I was wondering if there’s any WS that can help change the seal or solenoid? And not just change the entire mechatronic which is costly, thanks in advance!

 

[Citizen69]

Any of our site sponsor will be able to do the job.

https://www.bmw-sg.com/forums/categories/bmw-specialist-workshops-and-servicing.165/
I personally only tried 2 from the list (excluding PML). I went for the basic ws and not those performance enhancing ws, but it should not matter, all of them are fully capable and fairly priced, just spend some time/effort to visit and ask them DIRECTLY before making a decision

Seals, solenoids are part of the full mechatronic
Cheapest - change seal (less than S$100 for parts only)
Next - change solenoids (less than S$800 for parts only)
Wow - change the full mechatronics (S$3.2k++++ include labour, depend on ws)

Logically it would be (in terms of cost) to try the cheapest solution and then move up the next stage.
If you have the budget and want a piece of mind and save time, just change the whole mechatronics, because it WILL include all the seals, solenoids, in its original factory fitted condition, no worries about whether your ws will install the individual parts properly or not.

I tried the step-by-step approach (in spite of ws telling me to change the whole set). Cost me about S$2K (for seals and solenoids + labour) + 3-4 days(x2) downtime. Unfortunately the improved 'new drive' feeling only lasted 6 months and the problems came back
(mine was similar to yours, but progressed to high rev before switching gears, followed by 'transmission failure' message on iDrive, before I made the S$2K repair)

In a way, I regretted doing the step by step method of diagnosis, as by the time I felt that enough is enough as it was almost unbearable to drive, my COE only left 1 year. As my ws commented, change the whole thing now, at least enjoy the ride BMW is supposed to drive for the remaining COE period.

Ultimately it is your judgement of cost/savings vs peace of mind. Good luck!

 

[JollyKids]

Thank you for the reply! It is helpful hearing from your insights. I've decided to bite the bullet and go for a full change of mechatronics. I've weighed the pros and cons of doing step by step VS one full replacement. Step by step the only concern is if the issue is not resolve, i will have to spend time and money to further replace the parts.

Just curious, after the $2K repairs, did you further do anymore repairs? Since the issue came back.

Thank you!

 

[Citizen69]

Like I mentioned, the problems came back after about 6+ months and at that time, my COE left 1 year, so no point as I did not intend to extend the COE.

problem started in the 5th year (similar to your symptoms) but I procrastinated for a long time before doing step 1. Then after good 1 year, problems came back, and procrastinated again then do step 1 again with step 2 together.
The story ends as per above.

FYI I traveled to JB and back every single weekday, so the transmission was probably overworked (stop-start jams) daily throughout the 5 years of ownership. On hindsight it would not be a bad idea to change mechatronics at the 5th year then (I bought 2nd hand at its 4th year). I might have extended COE then.

Good luck!

NB. it was the solenoid 1 and 2 that failed most of the time (gear 1 and 2)

 

[Xris]

Need to understand if mine is having same problems, if really solenoids (gear 1 and 2) got issues, will throw fault codes?

 

[rssid]

Might not get fault codes just jerky changes or hesitant to change or release that gear due to the solenoid worn. Best bring it to any of our site sponsors to check it out as they have the proper scan tools. Whatever anyone says here (including me) is just guess work

 

[Bentanlh70]

I heard that DSG is more worse in frequent stop-start traffic. It’s holding me back from getting a VW

 

[rssid]

I heard that DSG is more worse in frequent stop-start traffic. It’s holding me back from getting a VW

that was for the 7 speed dry clutch DSG gearbox wayyyyyy back in 2014 or so. They've since sorted it out and are giving extended warranty. But it did affect a wide range of cars.

 

[Citizen69]

Yup, so far so good (touch wood) for my 7 speed 2017 passat. Get the 6 speed wet clutch DSG if its a worry, and the power/torque is much better too. (Get Bimmer for the drive and comfort!!!)

ZF also didnt last me very long as I had LOTS of stop-starts in causeway jams working in JB previously

 

[Bentanlh70]

Considering getting the Mk7.5 with wet clutch. Don’t really fancy the design of Mk8.
Personally, I find the ZF very competent.