Wrong Battery Change - Start Stop not working

And I am counting down the days that the workshop should at least call me to check out whether my start stop feature is working or not.

Disappointed. Sigh.
 
Thomaslyc said:
I do not like to highlight the workshop here. As I always believe to sort things out with the workshop first and giving them a chance to rectify the issue. But this situation really gave me the bad experience that an established and reputable workshop do not know the technicalities of how a bmw will behave after battery change especially the start stop feature with their most experienced mechanics serving me. I must say after the end of the day the workshop concluded that the car need to run a day or 2 to make the feature work again is a disappointment to me too. If they are expert in bmw they should have told me and their mechanic who is testing and checking my car and running my car out for test drive couple of times from morning till 3pm. While I lost so much confidence that I don't even want to take the risk to go for lunch and monitor the whole situation.

Sigh.
Click to expand...
Actually it's Easy for a boss to set up a ws and call themselves BMW specialise. I would avoid those so called reputable ones. They think they are experts and always like to bluff customers

Sent from my E2353 using Tapatalk
 
Hmm.., I changed to a non AGM battery on my F10 528 but my auto start stop function is still working.
Non BMW specialized workshop, just my simple trusted workshop at petrol kiosk.
I would rather have that ASS function disabled though. Lol

I suspect could be other reason that caused it. Might not be the battery.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
fu3g0 said:
Hmm.., I changed to a non AGM battery on my F10 528 but my auto start stop function is still working.
Non BMW specialized workshop, just my simple trusted workshop at petrol kiosk.
I would rather have that ASS function disabled though. Lol

I suspect could be other reason that caused it. Might not be the battery.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

The purpose of using a AGM battery as oppose to a regular battery is because of its ability to take constant discharge and fast charge which is essential with the ASS function. A normal battery might not last as long (i.e power capacity will drop under such condition over the same period of use). Once the battery is not able to hold a certain level of charge, the system will not allow ASS to work as a mean to conserve power.

Might want to check your battery if its not recently changed.
 
fu3g0 said:
Hmm.., I changed to a non AGM battery on my F10 528 but my auto start stop function is still working.
Non BMW specialized workshop, just my simple trusted workshop at petrol kiosk.
I would rather have that ASS function disabled though. Lol

I suspect could be other reason that caused it. Might not be the battery.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Buy BMW, don't like save $$$ hor. After battery change, it needs to be programmed want hor.
 
playstation76 said:
Actually it's Easy for a boss to set up a ws and call themselves BMW specialise. I would avoid those so called reputable ones. They think they are experts and always like to bluff customers

Sent from my E2353 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Disappointed but a good lesson learnt perhaps.
 
My ASS also stopped working all of the sudden after sending the car in for servicing at Munich. The car underwent some reprogramming as part of a campaign / service bulletin. After that, I noted that my wiper fluid (at the headlights) and ASS stopped working.

After about 2 months plus, cannot take it anymore. Went to Ah Hwa, suspected bad battery. Changed the battery but the ASS still did not work. Neither did the wiper fluid.

Then all of the sudden after around 50km - 80km of deliberate driving to charge the battery / waiting for car to stabilise by driving around, the ASS started working again and was working ever since. (Although the wiper still not working)

The car's electronics is super sensitive now. I had the BMW advance eye camera installed and runs it 24/7 (until the low voltage cut off by the sensor). Right now with the new cars, the battery is not charged all the time when we drive. It only charges when the engine brake / brakes are in effect. Thus it does not charges that often. Coupled with driving habits and distance we drive, the batteries / (maybe even some capacitors inside the car) isn't always charged to the level that it may be required to.

I suspect for my case, Munich did something to programme, thus affecting my wiper. The battery was already slowly dying and I blamed munich initially for it. Turns out to be a battery problem, and it took a while for the car to "stabilize" after installation.

I think u should drive around smoothly for longer distances, try to purposely let the battery charge, and plug out any extra devices that may be drawing current away.
 
Seraphblade said:
My ASS also stopped working all of the sudden after sending the car in for servicing at Munich. The car underwent some reprogramming as part of a campaign / service bulletin. After that, I noted that my wiper fluid (at the headlights) and ASS stopped working.

After about 2 months plus, cannot take it anymore. Went to Ah Hwa, suspected bad battery. Changed the battery but the ASS still did not work. Neither did the wiper fluid.

Then all of the sudden after around 50km - 80km of deliberate driving to charge the battery / waiting for car to stabilise by driving around, the ASS started working again and was working ever since. (Although the wiper still not working)

The car's electronics is super sensitive now. I had the BMW advance eye camera installed and runs it 24/7 (until the low voltage cut off by the sensor). Right now with the new cars, the battery is not charged all the time when we drive. It only charges when the engine brake / brakes are in effect. Thus it does not charges that often. Coupled with driving habits and distance we drive, the batteries / (maybe even some capacitors inside the car) isn't always charged to the level that it may be required to.

I suspect for my case, Munich did something to programme, thus affecting my wiper. The battery was already slowly dying and I blamed munich initially for it. Turns out to be a battery problem, and it took a while for the car to "stabilize" after installation.

I think u should drive around smoothly for longer distances, try to purposely let the battery charge, and plug out any extra devices that may be drawing current away.
Click to expand...

Thanks so much.
 
If it still doesn't work, may be the following items spoilt..

Why isn't my Stop/Start working?
There are numerous vehicle parameters that are monitored as a part of the stop/start function to ensure the driving experience is not impacted. As many of the factors are not possible to monitor it may appear that the feature is not working. Reasons why the stop/start may not shut down the engine include:
  • The car is coasting (manual transmission)
  • Brake vacuum reading is too low (manual transmission)
  • Insufficient brake pedal pressure is being applied to hold the vehicle stationary (automatic transmission)
  • Stopping on a hill/downhill with a 12% or greater gradient
  • If the steering angle is more then 6 degrees
  • If the steering wheel is still be moved after approximately one second of coming to a stop
  • The system has not yet be activated by going over a speed of 5mph for automatics, 3mph for manuals since the last engine switch off
  • If the gas pedal is being pressed (engine must be at idle speed only)
  • You're coming to a stop from reverse
  • The driver gets out of the car
  • If Hill Decent Control (HDC) is activated
  • If the engine is not up to temperature
  • If the carbon canister is being purged
  • if the grade of the fuel is too low for the engine
  • Transmission adaptation is active (automatic transmission)
  • The hydraulic pressure accumulator is not yet up to pressure (automatic transmission)
  • Stop-and-go traffic - system is only activated by driving over 5mph for automatics, 3mph for manuals
  • Batter charge is low
  • Outside temperature is colder then 37.4 F / 3 C
  • Outside temperature above 95 F / 35 C and the air conditioning system is on
  • Fogging of the windshield is detected by the IHKA system
  • Climate control system is on but passenger compartment has not yet reached desired temperature
  • ABS system was used when coming to a stop

Alternatively the car may automatically restart outside the standard restart procedure if:
  • The driver is moving the steering wheel
  • The driver presses the gas pedal
  • The transmission was shifted from D to P and subsequently back to D
  • The transmission is shifted to N or R
  • The battery charge runs low
  • Outside temperature rises above 95 F / 35 C and the air conditioning is on
  • Fogging of the windshield is detected by the IKHA system
  • Low evaporator temperature is detected
 
Seraphblade said:
If it still doesn't work, may be the following items spoilt..

Why isn't my Stop/Start working?
There are numerous vehicle parameters that are monitored as a part of the stop/start function to ensure the driving experience is not impacted. As many of the factors are not possible to monitor it may appear that the feature is not working. Reasons why the stop/start may not shut down the engine include:
  • The car is coasting (manual transmission)
  • Brake vacuum reading is too low (manual transmission)
  • Insufficient brake pedal pressure is being applied to hold the vehicle stationary (automatic transmission)
  • Stopping on a hill/downhill with a 12% or greater gradient
  • If the steering angle is more then 6 degrees
  • If the steering wheel is still be moved after approximately one second of coming to a stop
  • The system has not yet be activated by going over a speed of 5mph for automatics, 3mph for manuals since the last engine switch off
  • If the gas pedal is being pressed (engine must be at idle speed only)
  • You're coming to a stop from reverse
  • The driver gets out of the car
  • If Hill Decent Control (HDC) is activated
  • If the engine is not up to temperature
  • If the carbon canister is being purged
  • if the grade of the fuel is too low for the engine
  • Transmission adaptation is active (automatic transmission)
  • The hydraulic pressure accumulator is not yet up to pressure (automatic transmission)
  • Stop-and-go traffic - system is only activated by driving over 5mph for automatics, 3mph for manuals
  • Batter charge is low
  • Outside temperature is colder then 37.4 F / 3 C
  • Outside temperature above 95 F / 35 C and the air conditioning system is on
  • Fogging of the windshield is detected by the IHKA system
  • Climate control system is on but passenger compartment has not yet reached desired temperature
  • ABS system was used when coming to a stop

Alternatively the car may automatically restart outside the standard restart procedure if:
  • The driver is moving the steering wheel
  • The driver presses the gas pedal
  • The transmission was shifted from D to P and subsequently back to D
  • The transmission is shifted to N or R
  • The battery charge runs low
  • Outside temperature rises above 95 F / 35 C and the air conditioning is on
  • Fogging of the windshield is detected by the IKHA system
  • Low evaporator temperature is detected
Click to expand...
Thanks.

Better advise than workshop.
 
Seraphblade said:
If it still doesn't work, may be the following items spoilt..

Why isn't my Stop/Start working?
There are numerous vehicle parameters that are monitored as a part of the stop/start function to ensure the driving experience is not impacted. As many of the factors are not possible to monitor it may appear that the feature is not working. Reasons why the stop/start may not shut down the engine include:
  • The car is coasting (manual transmission)
  • Brake vacuum reading is too low (manual transmission)
  • Insufficient brake pedal pressure is being applied to hold the vehicle stationary (automatic transmission)
  • Stopping on a hill/downhill with a 12% or greater gradient
  • If the steering angle is more then 6 degrees
  • If the steering wheel is still be moved after approximately one second of coming to a stop
  • The system has not yet be activated by going over a speed of 5mph for automatics, 3mph for manuals since the last engine switch off
  • If the gas pedal is being pressed (engine must be at idle speed only)
  • You're coming to a stop from reverse
  • The driver gets out of the car
  • If Hill Decent Control (HDC) is activated
  • If the engine is not up to temperature
  • If the carbon canister is being purged
  • if the grade of the fuel is too low for the engine
  • Transmission adaptation is active (automatic transmission)
  • The hydraulic pressure accumulator is not yet up to pressure (automatic transmission)
  • Stop-and-go traffic - system is only activated by driving over 5mph for automatics, 3mph for manuals
  • Batter charge is low
  • Outside temperature is colder then 37.4 F / 3 C
  • Outside temperature above 95 F / 35 C and the air conditioning system is on
  • Fogging of the windshield is detected by the IHKA system
  • Climate control system is on but passenger compartment has not yet reached desired temperature
  • ABS system was used when coming to a stop

Alternatively the car may automatically restart outside the standard restart procedure if:
  • The driver is moving the steering wheel
  • The driver presses the gas pedal
  • The transmission was shifted from D to P and subsequently back to D
  • The transmission is shifted to N or R
  • The battery charge runs low
  • Outside temperature rises above 95 F / 35 C and the air conditioning is on
  • Fogging of the windshield is detected by the IKHA system
  • Low evaporator temperature is detected
Click to expand...

Sticky it!!! ;)
 
Hi ts has the problem been addressed
Had my batt changed and driving stabilisation issue popped out here n then
I don't have the ass prob although I turn it off most of the time


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
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