If possible, use back the same pump and stop at first click.
Lastly, if it really is around 5km/l, something's is vvvvv wrong.
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U did lots of idling? Start stops? That's an average. Use the old school TOP up to full and drive till re TOP up. Divide them and you'll get the rough consumption
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Software is free. Only need ethernet to obd cable. Please make sure u know what u are doing. Else, I would strongly suggest u leave it to the experts.
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Yes and no. Only those non essential items will be shut by the electronics module. If the battery drain is direct from battery connection, then it does not prevent the continuous drain. And batteries that are severely discharged will be unhealthy.
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Not talking nonsense. I fixed a couple of flats using the worm and compressor myself. It's only difficult if it's on the rears
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Even if the Garmin is off, it's still receiving charge. But that may be negligible. The higher discharge could be from the camera.
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I ever tried hartge. Not sure if spelled correctly. Its delivery is smooth. Other than that, also tried Monster, TMC, DME and also Racechip. All gave v similar "feel". In the end, stock's the best. Smooth. Hahaha.
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It's just a piggyback. Manipulates signal. Not an ECU so to speak. But it monitors more sensors than most general Brand. If installed correctly, no cel. Not really any difference in consumption
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Hah. Wanna try to see if there is any difference. Apparently not. So bought another set of BMW originals and have them replaced. They can last up to 80k km. So there is no need to change them.
I'm on my 4th set. With the latest changed during 80k servicing.
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