Racebred
Core Group Members
hahahahah les, thats a good one. incidently, my car stalls every morning every single time, when after i back out in R, i switch to D, and it dies. Simple way of overcoming it is to give it a little rev during the R to D switchpoint, but something's definitely wrong here. I dont think it's any better than your 17 year old car.
Anyway the 328 is really one of the last pure ferraris around, and you're lucky to get a good condition one (although the best condition one you were eyeing not for sale. hahahah) clunky but direct gearchange, NO power steering, almost lying down sitting position. Good thing the aircon can be cold. I really love driving the 328, and whacking the shit out of it too. hahah. You think your car is still trackable? Is it still on it's first set of shocks?
OK a 10 point summary of what we've discussed?
1. Our cars run on a function of air, fuel, ignition (amongst other factors).
2. Due to differing conditions, based on climate, territority, fuel available, and mods, our ECU has the ability to change certain attributes listed in (1) to run efficiently.
3. There are 2 types of changes, short term (instantaneous reaction), or long term (fixed changes over time, that skews the graph en bloc).
4. Thus when we mod bastards tinker with the car, the Long Term aspect of the ECU doesnt adapt to the mod (since it's bloody long term) that quickly, and our mods are not optimised.
5. Clearing of adaptation is done by our usual BMW scantools. PML, Juzz, Riverview, BVO, amongst others have such diagnostic tools. It basically clears everything the car has been adapting to, so it's like fresh from the factory. Pretty much like pressing the HARD RESET button on your palm pilot.
6.Thus the question is: When we mod, To clear, or not to clear?
7. One argument is: No worries, it'll slowly adapt to the mod sooner or later. The other argument is: Starting from scratch seems like a purer method.
8. Eg, If you're on +10% adaptation, and you mod an air filter to increase airflow. You know you should reach +11%, resetting to 0% then creep back to 11% seems like a waste of time. But if you're at 10%, and your mod requires it to go -10%, then resetting it to 0 will help it go to the destination faster.
9. But it's a moot point since not many people have a scantool to tell them their current adaptation anyway, plus clearing adaptation is nothing wrong.
10. So, in a nutshell, if you dont have the proper tools, or are unsure how a particular mod will affect your Long Term adaptation, just clear the farker and let the ECU do it's job.
Anyway the 328 is really one of the last pure ferraris around, and you're lucky to get a good condition one (although the best condition one you were eyeing not for sale. hahahah) clunky but direct gearchange, NO power steering, almost lying down sitting position. Good thing the aircon can be cold. I really love driving the 328, and whacking the shit out of it too. hahah. You think your car is still trackable? Is it still on it's first set of shocks?
OK a 10 point summary of what we've discussed?
1. Our cars run on a function of air, fuel, ignition (amongst other factors).
2. Due to differing conditions, based on climate, territority, fuel available, and mods, our ECU has the ability to change certain attributes listed in (1) to run efficiently.
3. There are 2 types of changes, short term (instantaneous reaction), or long term (fixed changes over time, that skews the graph en bloc).
4. Thus when we mod bastards tinker with the car, the Long Term aspect of the ECU doesnt adapt to the mod (since it's bloody long term) that quickly, and our mods are not optimised.
5. Clearing of adaptation is done by our usual BMW scantools. PML, Juzz, Riverview, BVO, amongst others have such diagnostic tools. It basically clears everything the car has been adapting to, so it's like fresh from the factory. Pretty much like pressing the HARD RESET button on your palm pilot.
6.Thus the question is: When we mod, To clear, or not to clear?
7. One argument is: No worries, it'll slowly adapt to the mod sooner or later. The other argument is: Starting from scratch seems like a purer method.
8. Eg, If you're on +10% adaptation, and you mod an air filter to increase airflow. You know you should reach +11%, resetting to 0% then creep back to 11% seems like a waste of time. But if you're at 10%, and your mod requires it to go -10%, then resetting it to 0 will help it go to the destination faster.
9. But it's a moot point since not many people have a scantool to tell them their current adaptation anyway, plus clearing adaptation is nothing wrong.
10. So, in a nutshell, if you dont have the proper tools, or are unsure how a particular mod will affect your Long Term adaptation, just clear the farker and let the ECU do it's job.
