My Coding / Diagnostic happenings ..........

Red_Bean_Bun

Well-Known Member
When I first got my current ride .... was damn lazy. Decided to spend some $$ and had the car inspected by a WS. WS said other than some wear and tear .... all is well. So I bought the ride.

Not long after - I had some trouble with the steering. The ride came with active front steering and it wasn't working as it should. At high speed, it would twitch at some bends.

AFS is for assisting you in turns and changes turning rate at different speeds e.g. for safety at high speeds (more direct) and so you would not work up a sweat while parking (less number of turns).

Finally this error came up .........

View attachment 57541

Decided that I am close enough to home - drove carefully back. Picked up my obd cable and laptop then went back to the car. When I restarted the ride, the DSC light came on as well. Thinking about the twitching and the DSC error coming on as well - not surprising since the DSC relies on the AFS for some of its functions. I figured that the calibration of the AFS is probably out. So I decided to re-calibrate the AFS.

With the engine running (I need the power steering) - plugged in the cable and ran the diags. Was feeling moody so decided to use the simplest tool versus ISTA etc which is a pain to load up.

- Cleared all the errors
- Parked on a "nice" level ground
- Lined the steering angle to zero guided by the angle sensor (SZL). Quite a tedious process as it keeps "running".
- Initiate the calibration. The interesting part is when you had to jiggle the steering wheel like PCC as watch the motor
positions being calculated on screen.
- Turned off then on the engine

Watched the car boot up and the DSC error showed up. Cleared that error and restarted. Both the steering and DSC stayed off, finally. Btw, this is one of the things I would check before going for an alignment. And during alignments, make sure you choose the specifications that includes AFS.

And so I thought all is well till I did something and the ABS light came on a couple of days later .........

...... .
 
Re: My Coding / Diagnostic happenings ..........

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Subscribed to RBB's Rocket Science Daily...
 
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Now waiting for Season 1 episode 2
 
Re: My Coding / Diagnostic happenings ..........

Well before the ABS episode ......

Spent today thinking about how do I bail myself out of a mod gone bad while managing 9 hours of sleep in the last 72 hours.

I was trying out a change in the way my factory oil cooler kicks in. I want to lower the oil temperature by 5 Celsius so that the average operating temp would be 105 celsius. And why 105 celsius ? A lower temp would help offload the burdens of the cooling system but not so low that it cannot vaporize the moisture in the engine oil.

Engine oil is hygroscopic. Meaning that over time it absorbs moisture from the air. The moisture would cause the oil to deteriorate and that affect the efficacy of the EO.
The combination of moisture in the EO and blowback gases from the PCV results in a sticky mess in the head of the engine. So the idea is to get the operating temp above 100 celsius to boil the moisture - vaporize it.
The other thing is that EO cst rating are based on 100 celsius. So I wanted it operating close to the specs.

Today my average operating temp is 110 celsius. It was 115 celsius when I got the ride.
I change of the radiator water to distilled water - I bought 2 tubs of the distilled drinking water from the WS' water dispenser delivery guy. And added 2 bottles of redline water wetter. Then a switch to GC 0w30 got it lowered to the temp today.

So how do I get it lowered ? My personal approach has always been to go with the cheapest route and work it up the cost ladder till the desired effect is derived.

Now, we all know that the factory oil cooler thermostat kicks in at 110 celsius by default. So why don't I disable that thermostat so that it kicks in all the time ?

While I was contemplating this - you got to be thinking that BMW engineers put a thermostat that opens at 110 celsius for a reason. And how is some guy with a NTC3 trying to be smarter than BMW. My rationale is that the thermostat is there only for 1 reason - to help the ride warm up to operating temp ASAP. A cold engine has high FC and will not operate well. E.g. JB4 would not boost till its over 72 celsius. But the Germans being a global company must be thinking of dudes driving during winter in Deutscheland or elsewhere so my stake in the ground is that it's for winter. In Singapore - no problems if the oil cooler operate all day.

So I decided to take a break from some M&A thing in office and grabbed my toolkit and walked to my car.

Popped the bonnet here's the bay ......

View attachment 57667

The thermostat housing is bolted on to the oil filter housing.

View attachment 57668

The idea is to remove the actual thermostat from the housing. To access it you need to remove 3 bolts ......

View attachment 57669

View attachment 57670

While removing the bolts, knowing that its spring loaded I left one bolt holding the cover.

Next I to create the clearance I had to think about how do I get the engine cover out of the way. Being the lazy guy that I am ...... I decided against removing the engine cover. That is just too much work - remove the cowl, 5 bolts, 3 clips etc ......... So I remove the 2 bolts from the front of the engine cover and push it aside. That got me 10mm - more than enough clearance.

Then the freak accident happened - loosened the last bolt and the thermostat propelled out of the housing (damn spring) and disappeared in to engine bay. WTF - must be the sleep depravation.

View attachment 57671

With a hole there I decided I have no choice but to drive to Paya Ubi. Should not be a problem as without the thermostat the housing is in a "shut" position.

When I got there the temp was 120 Celsius.

Went into 2277 - told them what happened. And they hoisted it up removed the skid board and prowled around. Can't find it.

Finally the mech decided to give the radiator fan a whack ..... It had an echo. Hehe ..... The thermostat is in the fan housing.

We pried open the housing from the bottom by releasing the 2 clips and it dropped out.

View attachment 57672

View attachment 57673

Kudos to the guys at 2277 ....... I would probably have to resort to buying a new thermostat housing from Eng Soon ($120) if it was gone, not a biggie - 5 bolts for the housing and the removal of the air funnel.

So what's next - the idea is to reposition the thermostat so that it is always in an open position. This is how it is arranged from factory -

View attachment 57674

So when it hits 110 Celsius - the plunger would expand deeper into the housing blocking a certain passage allowing another valve to open allowing oil to return from the cooler.

So this means I would have to switch the positions of the spring and thermostat around then put it all back - this would have that plunger in the hole full time.

Put everything back in reverse older and took the drive out for a drive 40 minutes at 33 Celsius ambient temperature. Gunned it a couple of times. Usually it would be at 110 Celsius on the cluster ...... But now it's - 105 Celsius. Warm up time - 10 minutes. No different from before,

View attachment 57675

This should work across all N55 and N54 engines .... with a factory oil cooler.
 
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Re: My Coding / Diagnostic happenings ..........

Gd write up and knowledge sharing... I'm campin here.... Pls post more FR.... :D
 
Re: My Coding / Diagnostic happenings ..........

u da champion! ... camping for more FR!
 
Re: My Coding / Diagnostic happenings ..........

Bro - that's great news ...

But DIY quite tedious ya ...
 
Re: My Coding / Diagnostic happenings ..........

Dun tempt me leh bro ...

U bery poisonous ... Ha ha
 
Re: My Coding / Diagnostic happenings ..........

Just published the continuation of the AFS episode ..... decide to stop at there for tonight ...... got to get into some conference calls.

BMW Coding & Modifications that work Blog

In DIY # 2 - I recalibrated the AFS. Then I realized that I ought to check where my ride is with all of ECUs. The way to check would be to poll the ride for the UIF. So had a look and found this .........

View attachment 57689

As you can see - most of the firmware are ancient. So I would not be surprised if the ride is not optimal or had bugs or faults that came with the ride that is not addressed.

Always do this first. Then do the simple mods like folding the mirrors or enabling the aircon recirc feature etc.

The first module I will update is the DSC. After all, I did had a DSC fault show up on my dash and iDrive.

The first you have to do is to know what is latest update and what is the difference with the current release. A quick check reveals that ZUSB 6776067 does have an update. However the question is which one to apply ?

Matching the right ZUSB to the right HW ID and SGBD is quite important. Else face the consequences ... like bricking the module and in this case the ride. I decided that the correct ZUSB is 6776069.

So I began the flash. There are many ways to do this. My preferred method is to directly enter the ZUSB and go straight to the flash using WINKFP. Never liked WINKFP telling what should be the correct ZUSB.

View attachment 57690

It's limiting as you can see .......

I kicked off the process and it completed the upgrade. When I started the ride - the ABS, DSC AFS faults appeared as expected. The next step in completing the flash is .........
 
Re: My Coding / Diagnostic happenings ..........

Hi Bro RBB, you sound very knowlegeble and daring to carry out your engine mods, hats off to you. Did you mention that stock setting of thermostat is 110C before it open? That would be consistent with what my coolant temp monitor is telling me, but I wouldn't have believed it till you mentioned it. The reason is that in my other Jap ride (a mazda) I have a Scangauge reading the coolant temp which is typically steady at 79C. I'm quite amazed that there is such a big difference in the coolant operating temp between the beemer and the mazda? Am I missing something?
 
Re: My Coding / Diagnostic happenings ..........

The N54 run typically hotter (mine when I first took over averaged at 115 Celsius). Its design is as such probably because of the turbos. Non-turbo engines like the M54 runs at just over 100 celsius. The cooling systems influences the engine performance based on the cylinder head temps below

• 110°C Economy fuel mode
• 105°C Normal fuel mode
• 80-95°C High fuel mode (e.g. when just start the car not too long)

When the coolant temp is low - produces more torque. When the coolant temp is high - good for fuel economy. Happy with the butt feel so far ......The thermostat I wrote about is the Oil Cooler thermostat - it opens at 110 Celsius.

** Not sure about Mazda but 80 Celsius seems kind of low for the operating temp.



easy;1056399 said:
Hi Bro RBB, you sound very knowlegeble and daring to carry out your engine mods, hats off to you. Did you mention that stock setting of thermostat is 110C before it open? That would be consistent with what my coolant temp monitor is telling me, but I wouldn't have believed it till you mentioned it. The reason is that in my other Jap ride (a mazda) I have a Scangauge reading the coolant temp which is typically steady at 79C. I'm quite amazed that there is such a big difference in the coolant operating temp between the beemer and the mazda? Am I missing something?
 
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Re: My Coding / Diagnostic happenings ..........

Any shop that can flash updates other than Pml and Ma?

good write up.
 
Re: My Coding / Diagnostic happenings ..........

you can try site sponsors Elebest....
 

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