My Coding / Diagnostic happenings ..........

[easy]

Re: My Coding / Diagnostic happenings ..........

Thanks, my mistake it should be 89C instead of 79C still way lower than what the beemer is reading. I wonder if the sensors from different parts of the coolant circuit in the different cars. The EO temp in my beemer typically reads around 115C.

 

[Red_Bean_Bun]

Re: My Coding / Diagnostic happenings ..........

Diagnosed that I have a leaky oil cooler at the thermostat end and I decided to fix it in the morning.

Here's a clip of what I saw while I was checking for oil leaks when I am stuck with some challenges at work ....... Quite therapeutic. See the brown ring at the 20 sec mark ?

[video=youtube;9b2mdE_A5J8]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9b2mdE_A5J8[/video]

So I decided that its time for the O Ring to be replaced. Drove to Eng Soon and bought these - 17 22 2 245 358.

The next step is to have a look at the diagram to determine the approach -

View attachment 57966

So the idea is to remove the intake snorkel (2 screws) followed by one bolt (part no. 7 of diagram) under the thermostat housing.

There I decided to get into a WS - it looks like it may get messy and I might need a hoist again to clean up. So dropped by 2277.

Snorkels taken out .....

View attachment 57967

Thermostat bolt taken out .... And this is where the engine oil gushed out. Good thing we were prepared. Most of the oil was absorbed into the rag.

View attachment 57968

View attachment 57969

The old O Rings ..... Notice the 2 are different in size ? The new pair are identical in size.

View attachment 57970

And after that drove back home packed and flew to Queensland ........

 

[Red_Bean_Bun]

Re: My Coding / Diagnostic happenings ..........

So far here's what I coded for my ride - quite a lengthy list.

- Converted my to local Singapore settings since mine is a Japan PI. Will have a more detailed post on this one as it involves quite a number of things like headlamp, brake lights, aircon (and I am not talking about the recirculation button but something more major, chassis config, radio, language and DRL. Includes reconfiguring the dynamic headlights (AHL).....now it follows my steering finally.

- A variety of welcome light combinations with fogs, AEs, license plate lights, low beam, tail lamps, parking lights and signal lights turning on in different ways when you up unlock the ride e.g instant or soft on etc. Current combi is chosen by my daughter because she thinks it's the prettiest.

- Smoothened out my ride's pickup and stopping by flashing the transmission software then modifying the DSC settings to get rid of that jerking feel in both situation.

- Changed the voltage if the Drl to make it brighter via the pulse width modulation settings

- Upgraded my fuel pump software. A must for N54 engines to address to the Hpfp issues. It will make use of the LPFP to prime the fuel pressures during initial start.

-Enabled the alarm. Funny thing this is - the alarm is installed but not coded out of the factory. Anyway I coded it to chirp when locking (unlocking is doable but thought it was uncool). The panic alarm was tougher to enable. It took me some time to trace it out by chance.

- Sorted out the reception issue with the radio. Apparently the antennae itself has a module and needed to be flashed and calibrated.

- Re-calibrated the ABS after flashing the DSC. This involved an interesting approach which was something similar in dealing with some unix apps.

- Did the simple ones (folding mirror including making it instantly close, digital speedo, fuel reserve indicator, kombi firmware flash, view TV or DVD in motion, key eject, wiper back to resting position after ignition off, aircon recirculation memory, disable DRL dimming, made the third brake light flash during hard braking (2 stages), re-registered my battery (had that changed) and double checked the coding ..... All I can say is that there is a lot of things that can be changed.

One of the things I am working on is the Alpina and Open flashes .......likely will start in Jan. And will also post the updates on my blog as well when it's done.

 

[wt_know]

Re: My Coding / Diagnostic happenings ..........

wow ... awesome coding work you got there ...

 

[casper77]

Re: My Coding / Diagnostic happenings ..........

Am i impressed!!!!

 

[MW]

Re: My Coding / Diagnostic happenings ..........

RBB is my new DIY tech hero

 

[lim_ck]

Re: My Coding / Diagnostic happenings ..........

Did u hook up your car to a battery charger while flashing the modules? This is one of the recommendations I read on to prevent bricking the modules in case the car battery dies while you are flashing the modules.

 

[Red_Bean_Bun]

Re: My Coding / Diagnostic happenings ..........

Did u hook up your car to a battery charger while flashing the modules? This is one of the recommendations I read on to prevent bricking the modules in case the car battery dies while you are flashing the modules.

For some of the modules - it's a must. I have a charger just to take care of this while making sure not to bypass the IBS while hooking it up ......

 

[seanskye]

My Coding / Diagnostic happenings ..........

RBB is my new DIY tech hero

Maybe ask him to code your yaMW5 to yalpinaMW5? Win-win, best of both worlds!

 

[easy]

Re: My Coding / Diagnostic happenings ..........

Thanks, my mistake it should be 89C instead of 79C still way lower than what the beemer is reading. I wonder if the sensors from different parts of the coolant circuit in the different cars. The EO temp in my beemer typically reads around 115C.

Sorry for the digression but for those interested I can confirm that when I unlocked the coolant temp secret menu as a check on the accuracy of the headunit values it reported the same readings, so nothing wrong there.

 

[Red_Bean_Bun]

Re: My Coding / Diagnostic happenings ..........

One major factor that effects the engine temps is the coolant used and the proportion ....

BMW (Approval - N 600 69.0) specified use for a G48 type coolant - zero in phosphates & nitrates and some silicate for some engine block protection. All coolants are either ethylene or propylene glycol based. Personally I think propylene don't "soak up" heat well though the boiling point is good.
But not all ethylene glycols are the same - the presence of certain minerals is the differentiator (non G48 coolants). Those minerals mentioned earlier like phosphates and nitrates are detested by BMW. These minerals react with aluminum. BMW made engines with a Aluminum Silicate alloy (alumsil) - the phosphates and nitrates would react and create deposits that is just bad for the cooling system. If tap water is used - becomes worst due to the chlorine - more chemical reactions. Different engines would have different reaction to the minerals.

If using the benchmark 50/50 coolant / water mixture - the coolant will boil at about 107 deg C. If your average engine temp is less than that then that should be fine. Some people say should use a higher ratio of coolants to raise the boiling point. But I think distilled water has the highest efficiency in "soak up" heat (KJ/volume). So the search is for the ratio that will give you the highest coolant boiling point while attempting to keep the average engine temp (EO) at the target temp range.

Some people use (water/coolant) 75/25 (cold climate - I guess). I tried 60/40 since I have a turbo application (110 Celsius ave engine temp prior to the thermostat mod - an attempt to raise the coolant boiling point > 107 Celsius). Most NA applications 50/50 (< 107 Celsius).
Since I have made my oil cooler work full time - I may tweak this ratio at my next radiator flush.

Is your ride a turbo application ?

Sorry for the digression but for those interested I can confirm that when I unlocked the coolant temp secret menu as a check on the accuracy of the headunit values it reported the same readings, so nothing wrong there.

 

[lesliek]

Re: My Coding / Diagnostic happenings ..........

is there anyway we can pay you a token to do all this programming for us?

 

[vexxus]

Re: My Coding / Diagnostic happenings ..........

is there anyway we can pay you a token to do all this programming for us?

Maybe you can drop TS a PM..

 

[easy]

Re: My Coding / Diagnostic happenings ..........

One major factor that effects the engine temps is the coolant used and the proportion ....

BMW (Approval - N 600 69.0) specified use for a G48 type coolant - zero in phosphates & nitrates and some silicate for some engine block protection. All coolants are either ethylene or propylene glycol based. Personally I think propylene don't "soak up" heat well though the boiling point is good.
But not all ethylene glycols are the same - the presence of certain minerals is the differentiator (non G48 coolants). Those minerals mentioned earlier like phosphates and nitrates are detested by BMW. These minerals react with aluminum. BMW made engines with a Aluminum Silicate alloy (alumsil) - the phosphates and nitrates would react and create deposits that is just bad for the cooling system. If tap water is used - becomes worst due to the chlorine - more chemical reactions. Different engines would have different reaction to the minerals.

If using the benchmark 50/50 coolant / water mixture - the coolant will boil at about 107 deg C. If your average engine temp is less than that then that should be fine. Some people say should use a higher ratio of coolants to raise the boiling point. But I think distilled water has the highest efficiency in "soak up" heat (KJ/volume). So the search is for the ratio that will give you the highest coolant boiling point while attempting to keep the average engine temp (EO) at the target temp range.

Some people use (water/coolant) 75/25 (cold climate - I guess). I tried 60/40 since I have a turbo application (110 Celsius ave engine temp prior to the thermostat mod - an attempt to raise the coolant boiling point > 107 Celsius). Most NA applications 50/50 (< 107 Celsius).
Since I have made my oil cooler work full time - I may tweak this ratio at my next radiator flush.

Is your ride a turbo application ?

Nope just your garden variety 320. Do you know at what coolant temp the over heating warning light comes on at?

 

[seanskye]

Re: My Coding / Diagnostic happenings ..........

is there anyway we can pay you a token to do all this programming for us?

Just do it.... MTL!

 

[Red_Bean_Bun]

Re: My Coding / Diagnostic happenings ..........

I think around 126+- Celsius it goes into limp mode. 320 should be operating < 107 Celsius ....

At 115 Celsius for a NA ride - better go check on your water pump and temperature sensors etc ..... But before that - How's the water coolant level ? Fan is loud and keeps coming on ?

Then see if there's any fault codes. Maybe time to visit R2D......

Nope just your garden variety 320. Do you know at what coolant temp the over heating warning light comes on at?

 

[easy]

Re: My Coding / Diagnostic happenings ..........

LOL, nearly my whole coolant system save the fan has been replaced. I think no problem there but now keep an eye on the EO temp maybe is the sensor, should find some time to pay Dr Rod a visit.

 

[Cochran]

Re: My Coding / Diagnostic happenings ..........

how to see the temperature for E90 320i? The speedo there dun have any temperature gauge lei.

 

[Red_Bean_Bun]

Re: My Coding / Diagnostic happenings ..........

You need to get the last 5 digits of your vin and add all the numbers up.

This will be your password.

To access these hidden menu, you have 2 options..

Option 1
Turn ignition on, or start your car
Press and hold the button to reset the daytrip/odometer for 10 seconds

Option 2
Press and hold the button to reset the daytrip/odometer
While keeping this button pressed, insert the keyfob into its slot, and release the button

At this point the BC should display data in a "XX.YY" format. So if the BC displays "01.00", that means Main Menu 01, sub menu 00
To continue to navigate the menus, you need to use again the daytrip/odometer button (hereafter just called 'button')

View attachment 58031

While the display reads XX.__ press the button repeatedly to select the main menu option (XX)
when reaching the desired main menu option, wait for 2 second for the display to read XX.00, at this time pressing the button will select the sub menu (YY)
To go back to selection of a main menu (XX), press and hold the button for 2 seconds, until it shows XX.__ again.
To leave the hidden/service menus press and hold the button for 10 seconds, or remove the keyfob.

At this point, the available main menus are 01, 02 and 19. To access the remaining menus use the password.

To enter the unlock code, go to main menu 19, and wait until it asks for the unlock code. Now press the button until it reads your password and the display will show 'lock: off'.

Now all menus are available

View attachment 58032

The coolant temperature is 07:00 and another useful stat is your ride's voltage 09:00.

View attachment 58034

View attachment 58033

how to see the temperature for E90 320i? The speedo there dun have any temperature gauge lei.

 

[seanskye]

My Coding / Diagnostic happenings ..........

RBB....... only one GPGT to describe you...