hohlim
Well-Known Member
Hi everyone, i would like to start off this post by saying im not a diy kind of guy, i always try but my wife always looks at me and shakes her head and comments, why bother? Dun make it any more worse than it is!
I admit there were times when i try to save money and in the end i land up paying more for someone to fix the mess i created when there wasn't a big problem to start with. I hope my engine does not have any issues.......
Today's weekend warrior project was to change the engine oil on my G30 B58. I watched some youtube videos and it seemed simple enough. I then spent some money to get the tools needed. Lets say it may take 20 oil changes to recoup my losses
. The mileage on the car was 2700kms, some may refer to it as the running in oil change. After this, i will be more confident to increase the revs but an oil change to the tranny is also good but im not capable to diy that. Maybe will do it at 10,000km
Why am i doing it? Hahaha..For fun i guess....
Purchase list
Car ramps (From US)
Oil drain pan (From US)
3/8 drive socket with 32 mm (for oil filter) (From US)
Creeper seat ) (From US)
3/8 drive Socket wrench set (for drain plug), actually i needed only 17mm but i bought the whole set anyway (Local)
3/8 drive socket wrench extension 150mm (to access the oil filter cap as it was in a difficult position)(Local)
3/8 drive Norbar 8-50Nm Torque wrench(Local)
Motul 8100 oil (used 6.5L)(Local)
Oil filter(Local)
Here are the tools/equipment
Here are the pics for those whose backside may be itchy too!
First and foremost, the car had to be raised so i could access the drain plug, the work was to be done during lunch time at work. There's a chemical section within the company which disposes of chemical waste, so the used oil would be passed to them for disposal
The ramp comes in 2 parts, once the car was safely up, i applied the handbrake and used the 2nd half of the ramp as a wedge just in case. Note that i did not have a back up in the event the ramps failed. Some people use jack stands or bricks. The ramp height is 10 inches or around 250mm. Clearance was ok with my car with lowering springs. ACS Springs
Prior to going up the ramp, i warmed up the engine for around 5mins as understand that warm oil flows easier. Once up the ramp, the next step was to open the drain plug. I used the creeper seat to access the bottom and located the drain plug.
I used a 17mm socket wrench to open the bolt. Note that there is a copper washer that you have to replace when ever the drain plug is opened. The copper washer came with the oil filter.
Its advisable to open the drain plug a little to ensure that the liquid coming out is oil and not tranny fluid. After the drain plug was open.....
I a plastic drain pan and another stainless steel tray to catch the oil. After the drain plug was open, i went onto remove the oil filter cap. There are 4 points that the plastic "twin power turbo cover" is being fasten to.... just lift either of the 4 corners and it pops right off. I think its called a grommet? correct me if i am wrong
After the cover is removed, locate the oil filter housing, its located at the passenger side at the back of the engine bay. One pic is with the 32mm scoket and the other is without.
After the cover is removed, more oil would flow out.
Here are pics of the oil filter after i removed it, there were no signs of metal filings or metal pieces visible.
Next was to fit the new oil filter back on. Note that the side with the non complete circle fits into the cap. There would be a "click" sound and it would not drop out when pushed in. also remember to lubricate the oil filter and oil filter gasket
I then had to locate the old drain plug which was in the pool of engine oil. The oil was warm and oooooo so nice....hahahaha
Remember to fit the new rubber gasket onto the plastic oil cap. Screw it back using the same wrench. i was not able to find the torque values for this but noticed a considerable amount of turning torque at a certain point and stopped there. The drain plug was also screwed back after a while. A new copper washer was also used. The torque value i used was 20ft lbs or 27Nm for the drain plug. Kindly update me if i am a mistake on this and i will amend it in case others make the same mistake as me and cause some catastrophic failure on their engines! i will know in a few days
After the drain plug and oil filter was fitted back came the best part! filling up the engine oil...., i filled up 6L of oil and had to start the engine and drive the car of the ramps and filled another 0.5L to 0.6L. I did this as the car was not flat on the ground while on the ramps. The car has an electronic brake and i don't know how to roll the car off the ramps without starting the engine.
Thats the end of my virgin oil change for my run in oil change on my B58. I hope this would come in useful to some if not, thanks for reading!
I admit there were times when i try to save money and in the end i land up paying more for someone to fix the mess i created when there wasn't a big problem to start with. I hope my engine does not have any issues.......
Today's weekend warrior project was to change the engine oil on my G30 B58. I watched some youtube videos and it seemed simple enough. I then spent some money to get the tools needed. Lets say it may take 20 oil changes to recoup my losses
. The mileage on the car was 2700kms, some may refer to it as the running in oil change. After this, i will be more confident to increase the revs but an oil change to the tranny is also good but im not capable to diy that. Maybe will do it at 10,000km Why am i doing it? Hahaha..For fun i guess....
Purchase list
Car ramps (From US)
Oil drain pan (From US)
3/8 drive socket with 32 mm (for oil filter) (From US)
Creeper seat ) (From US)
3/8 drive Socket wrench set (for drain plug), actually i needed only 17mm but i bought the whole set anyway (Local)
3/8 drive socket wrench extension 150mm (to access the oil filter cap as it was in a difficult position)(Local)
3/8 drive Norbar 8-50Nm Torque wrench(Local)
Motul 8100 oil (used 6.5L)(Local)
Oil filter(Local)
Here are the tools/equipment
Here are the pics for those whose backside may be itchy too!
First and foremost, the car had to be raised so i could access the drain plug, the work was to be done during lunch time at work. There's a chemical section within the company which disposes of chemical waste, so the used oil would be passed to them for disposal
The ramp comes in 2 parts, once the car was safely up, i applied the handbrake and used the 2nd half of the ramp as a wedge just in case. Note that i did not have a back up in the event the ramps failed. Some people use jack stands or bricks. The ramp height is 10 inches or around 250mm. Clearance was ok with my car with lowering springs. ACS Springs
Prior to going up the ramp, i warmed up the engine for around 5mins as understand that warm oil flows easier. Once up the ramp, the next step was to open the drain plug. I used the creeper seat to access the bottom and located the drain plug.
I used a 17mm socket wrench to open the bolt. Note that there is a copper washer that you have to replace when ever the drain plug is opened. The copper washer came with the oil filter.
Its advisable to open the drain plug a little to ensure that the liquid coming out is oil and not tranny fluid. After the drain plug was open.....
I a plastic drain pan and another stainless steel tray to catch the oil. After the drain plug was open, i went onto remove the oil filter cap. There are 4 points that the plastic "twin power turbo cover" is being fasten to.... just lift either of the 4 corners and it pops right off. I think its called a grommet? correct me if i am wrong
After the cover is removed, locate the oil filter housing, its located at the passenger side at the back of the engine bay. One pic is with the 32mm scoket and the other is without.
After the cover is removed, more oil would flow out.
Here are pics of the oil filter after i removed it, there were no signs of metal filings or metal pieces visible.
Next was to fit the new oil filter back on. Note that the side with the non complete circle fits into the cap. There would be a "click" sound and it would not drop out when pushed in. also remember to lubricate the oil filter and oil filter gasket
I then had to locate the old drain plug which was in the pool of engine oil. The oil was warm and oooooo so nice....hahahaha
Remember to fit the new rubber gasket onto the plastic oil cap. Screw it back using the same wrench. i was not able to find the torque values for this but noticed a considerable amount of turning torque at a certain point and stopped there. The drain plug was also screwed back after a while. A new copper washer was also used. The torque value i used was 20ft lbs or 27Nm for the drain plug. Kindly update me if i am a mistake on this and i will amend it in case others make the same mistake as me and cause some catastrophic failure on their engines! i will know in a few days
After the drain plug and oil filter was fitted back came the best part! filling up the engine oil...., i filled up 6L of oil and had to start the engine and drive the car of the ramps and filled another 0.5L to 0.6L. I did this as the car was not flat on the ground while on the ramps. The car has an electronic brake and i don't know how to roll the car off the ramps without starting the engine.
Thats the end of my virgin oil change for my run in oil change on my B58. I hope this would come in useful to some if not, thanks for reading!
