Not really. It's only happens when I play certain songs (mainly those with high freqs). It's very obvious during the 1-2 secs breaks between songs. I'll check the grounding.
Also, it COULD be a CD/tuning issue. My setup is fine with pop songs. But the minute I play classical, the hiss comes on. Quite unnoticable, but that one for me is an EQ issue. Also, the CD isn't audiophile grade. pop in one of those SACDs, and they're fine.
Bro...its the recording quality lah. The hiss is on quiet passage of the track and sound machme like tape deck rite...
I think its the analogue to digital conversion not good during the recording. I find that Japaness recording studio has better recording control over euro ones. When I get classical disc...get the brand Tarrac (could be wrong spelling). Their recording are DDD (competely digital process) and quality is very very good. Must check out their 1812 track with digital cannon and gunshots....good for tekaning the system.
Also, it COULD be a CD/tuning issue. My setup is fine with pop songs. But the minute I play classical, the hiss comes on. Quite unnoticable, but that one for me is an EQ issue. Also, the CD isn't audiophile grade. pop in one of those SACDs, and they're fine.
Mine's fine with most pop songs and MP3 recordings too.
The problem is that the hiss is audible when I play a 'SACD'. :errr:
I got the demo SACD when I bought my DVD home system. It's comes with 3xSACD tracks and 11x2-channel tracks. I guess this should be audiophile quality rite? BTW, the alpine CDA-9835 doesn't support the SACD tracks.
I've done a gain adjustment using a voltmeter as suggested by the pple in www.caraudio.com. The gains on my amps are set below half the max and the HU volume is at 22. Normal listening at 18-19. I'll go adjust the levels as you've suggested and see what happens next.
i went down to the installer last Sat but the place was packed and he didn't have the time to assist. I've asked about the grounding but he replied that it should not be the prob. He mentioned that the HU is a very good one and sensitive, hence mebbe not 'compatible' with the amp.
I'll go down again tomorrow. This is what I intend to do:
1. Test the system by swopping the amp (suggested by the installer).
2. run a separate RCA cable, check the connections.
3. Swop the HU (if the above doesn't help).
This is really a fustrating problem... Hope to identify the problem real soon. The only good thing I can see from this issue is that I'm learning more and more everyday about ICE.
Not compatible ? hmmm...heard this many times before but the opinion and advice i gathered previously regarding such a comment is that the installer is probably trying to sell u some stuff. Dont blast me, this is wat i heard.
It could be recording quality actually. I remember i once played the Superman song by Five for fighting.. i burnt it on my PC, and when i started listening...i hear the hissing sound..haha..and i kept tellin my installer there's noise.
ICe-man is probably describing setting the gain. There's a general rule of thumb also, setting your gain while listening at 80% of your max HU volume. This means, set your volume at 80% level, then set the amp until the sound clips.
If its the same installer u mentioned at Toa payoh... i've heard him said before that bmw MUST only use alpine amps, otherwise, there will be a pop sound. U make your own opinion whether its true.
Try blk 55 at TPayoh... very old shop but i think very knowledgable.
Not compatible ? hmmm...heard this many times before but the opinion and advice i gathered previously regarding such a comment is that the installer is probably trying to sell u some stuff.
That's right! The only one who made it 'incompatible' was the installer himself! C'mon, its just an RCA link into the amp. The RCA's signal and fitting is a standard, and its only the gain level that may differ. That's why I mentioned level matching.
Back in the 90s, many installers make a killing because there were not many educated consumers... if system got problem, its always equipment fault, or 'incompatibility'. The installer will then proceed to 'trade-in' the equipment, and since you are regular customer, he will give you 'special price' on the new equipment.
Lo and behold... problem is fixed! Installer buys back equipment at half price, and lo and behold! It goes back on the shelf again.
P.S. This is especially true for cables. If you're paying good money for it, make sure the ones fitted in yr car are new ones.
These days, customers are getting smarter and smarter thanks to the internet forums like ICE-related ones. But there ARE some installers that still make a killing from those who are not in the know.
Did the amp swop. (used a class D? performa amp). Hiss still there. Too bad he dun have any class A amps ard to test, else he said the hiss definitely gone.
Did a HU swop with a brand new set. Hiss still there. :verysad:
No other choice, do what Iceman recommended and turned down the amp's gain and up the HU's output. Now listening ard 24-28 and Max at 35. Hiss not so audible so I'm pretty much satisfied...
Thanks guys for the great pointers. It has been a very interesting/fruitful learning experience. Nuggets, chicken wings on me at the next meetup!
actually, perhaps you can go to swift motion to ask what's going on... he's supposed to be the best in SG. totally high-end... he'll be able to tell u what's wrong.
Hey,
I've also the same problem, have a hissing sound when the gain is turned on high. Some pple said grounding, then when i went back to my installer he "checked" and said I should change my amps to alpine since my HU was alpine...so irritating! My HU's volume is ard 21-26! still deciding what to do! :hmmidont:
Can i take the risk and say that its probably ground loops ? Try grouding at a different place and/or keep the cables away from each other is possible.
There's another option which is to use "noise silencer" but its not a good idea cos it kills off some frequencies.
Erert,
i think u should change installer. Not very honest or not very knowledgable. Like Ghostrider said...all the amp makers can close shop. Quite the opposite isnt it ...the best amps in the world aint manufactured by brands which make HU.
Any recommendations-thinking of getting myself a new 4ch amplifer...it's always hard to switch fearing the new installers will cheat me...bmw and all...hmmm...oh yah...
What is the 4 ch amp for ...?
What are the RMS requirement ?
Depending on your budget..there are many established brands out there. Audison is gettin very popular.then u have the soundstreams, the Orions, the PPIs , Autotek is pretty good value for money. U also have the Genesis, Zapcos etc etc...
its a long list.
There are still honest installers out there. I think Pin Liang is alright but not cheap, and of cos u have those like Dynasty Soundcraft, Swift Motion, Hong Guan...
was thinking of getting a better amp than the one i have...to power my phd and infinity speakers. the rms is 80W and 90W to about 100+.. I guess I'll spend about $600...looking for lobang...
Oh yah...tried a few online shops..they all don't ship to Singapore-so aggravating!
Thanks for the installer lists though...maybe when i get my amp i'll check them out...
$600 can get u decent amps 2nd hand if u dont mind cruising the ICe forums, but its quite tough to get a 4x100rms one unless u up your budget a bit. Jus curious, wats your front components ?
i'm using PHD AF 5.1 KIT for the front and infinity reference 6000 for the back.. anyway i don't mind 2nd hand...just that no one seems to be sellng any... the amp i have is performa- think i need a better one!
Anyway i copied the specs out from their website...http://www.phd.it/
Two Way Component System
5.25” Aluminum Fiber Cone
Mid/Bass Driver
1” Fiberglass/Silk Dome
Neodymium Tweeter
12 dB Two Way Passive Crossover
Power Handling RMS/MAX: 90/180 Watts - Sensitivity
(SPL@1W): 91 dB
Frequency Response: 45 Hz – 20 Khz
Honestly never heard of it, but it cud be becos i aint no expert. Are u having a sub ? If u have a 12" sub, and using 5.25" front components, the subbass may overshadow cos the midbass not strong enough. Of cos tweaking EQ if any may work.
one option for your amp is to buy a 2 channel amp instead, dont power the rear speakers... So u have greater choices in buying the amp. What will happen is when u turn on the HU, the rear speakers will play first, and the rest will come in after X seconds.
Honestly never heard of it, but it cud be becos i aint no expert. Are u having a sub ? If u have a 12" sub, and using 5.25" front components, the subbass may overshadow cos the midbass not strong enough. Of cos tweaking EQ if any may work.
one option for your amp is to buy a 2 channel amp instead, dont power the rear speakers... So u have greater choices in buying the amp. What will happen is when u turn on the HU, the rear speakers will play first, and the rest will come in after X seconds.
MB Quartz has entry level and high end competition range
8" may not play the bass freq as well as 10" and 12". Most people who goes for SQ will take one 12". Some use 2 pieces 10" sub, altho those who use 12" will argue that 10" also cannot go as low.
Its also recommended by enthusiasts that u use a separate amp for subs cos (1) sub draws lots of power (2) settin of gain and crossover is more flexible since its independent.
No idea how much it will cost u, cos it depends on brand, and other hardware used. If u dont play golf everday, dont worry too much about boot space, and a sub can be removed easily in case u need space for luggage occasionally.
Which 12 inch sub would you recommend? Sealed or ported? I was thinking of getting a 12 inch sub with about 500rms capabilites. Don't think I will go all the way to 1000rms for the subs, though I heard the JLW7 is quite a force to be reckon with.
Would a mono-block amp do to power a 500rms sub? Anybody with experiences on that. Was thinking of chaning battery too. Don't want car battery to die on me. Any recommendations on where I could do a battery upgrade? And what kinda battery would be good. Thanks dudes.
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BTW, the alpine CDA-9835 doesn't support the SACD tracks.
