730li e66 probs
- Thread starter privi
- Start date
greymatter
Member
Re: 730li e66 probs
Sorry to bring up a 3 1/2 month old post, but this helped for me:
1) Insert key (don't put foot on brake).
2) Press 'Start' button once, but do not start engine.
3) Press accelerator pedal down to floor and hold for 25 secs - put your foot down past the "click".
4) Remove foot from accelerator and step on brake pedal. Start engine & drive car normally.
5) Note - over time, transmission will 'learn' your driving style and adapt to it, so repeat regularly if experiencing any problems.
Hope it helps.
shama_lover;860738 said:
Sorry to bring up a 3 1/2 month old post, but this helped for me:
1) Insert key (don't put foot on brake).
2) Press 'Start' button once, but do not start engine.
3) Press accelerator pedal down to floor and hold for 25 secs - put your foot down past the "click".
4) Remove foot from accelerator and step on brake pedal. Start engine & drive car normally.
5) Note - over time, transmission will 'learn' your driving style and adapt to it, so repeat regularly if experiencing any problems.
Hope it helps.
greymatter
Member
Re: 730li e66 probs
I believe there is no difference. The N52 engine, whether in 2.5 or 3.0 liter guise can have either a black cover or a silver one. I can't find a pattern - it's almost random.
kflee72;920833 said:
I believe there is no difference. The N52 engine, whether in 2.5 or 3.0 liter guise can have either a black cover or a silver one. I can't find a pattern - it's almost random.
greymatter
Member
Re: 730li e66 probs
True. The ECU adapts to your driving style over time, including the transmission shift points. The procedure "resets" the values back to default. So theoretically, if the OP is experiencing uncharacteristic shifting, hitting reset might cure the problem.
I had this hard downshift issue when I moved to a place where I have to drive uphill every time I go out. In the morning, when the engine is cold I am reluctant to use too much throttle pulling up the slope. But the car would bog down in 2nd (I think), then abruptly downshift to 1st. After I did the "reset" the downshift is much smoother. It may also be because I give it a little more gas going up that slope.
Try it. Remember to time 25 secs. You may be pleasantly surprised
nextreal;921131 said:
True. The ECU adapts to your driving style over time, including the transmission shift points. The procedure "resets" the values back to default. So theoretically, if the OP is experiencing uncharacteristic shifting, hitting reset might cure the problem.
I had this hard downshift issue when I moved to a place where I have to drive uphill every time I go out. In the morning, when the engine is cold I am reluctant to use too much throttle pulling up the slope. But the car would bog down in 2nd (I think), then abruptly downshift to 1st. After I did the "reset" the downshift is much smoother. It may also be because I give it a little more gas going up that slope.
Try it. Remember to time 25 secs. You may be pleasantly surprised
greymatter
Member
Re: 730li e66 probs
Have a look at this: BMW N52 - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
In Singapore, the N52 comes in two tunes for the 2.5 liter variant: 175bhp (523i) and 218bhp (325i/525i/Z4 2.5i). The 3.0 liter variant produces 258bhp (330i/530i/730i/Z4 3.0i). I may be wrong, but I don't think our market carries any other variant of the N52.
kflee72;920947 said:
Have a look at this: BMW N52 - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
In Singapore, the N52 comes in two tunes for the 2.5 liter variant: 175bhp (523i) and 218bhp (325i/525i/Z4 2.5i). The 3.0 liter variant produces 258bhp (330i/530i/730i/Z4 3.0i). I may be wrong, but I don't think our market carries any other variant of the N52.
greymatter
Member
Re: 730li e66 probs
I guess there's only one way to find out! :yikess:
Anyway my car is due for a "reset" before this weekend's drive up to KL. The bimmer is actually my wife's ride, so it's good to wipe the "Aunty Settings" once in a while...
FWIW I'll try 4 things:
1. 5 secs pedal down + 2 mins sit on hands
2. 25 secs pedal down + 2 mins sit on hands
3. (5 + 25 secs) pedal down + 2 mins sit on hands
4. all the above minus sit on hands
Wait a minute - that's 6 things. I wonder how long it takes for "Aunty Settings" to set in :nutkick:
MapleLeaf;921149 said:
I guess there's only one way to find out! :yikess:
Anyway my car is due for a "reset" before this weekend's drive up to KL. The bimmer is actually my wife's ride, so it's good to wipe the "Aunty Settings" once in a while...
FWIW I'll try 4 things:
1. 5 secs pedal down + 2 mins sit on hands
2. 25 secs pedal down + 2 mins sit on hands
3. (5 + 25 secs) pedal down + 2 mins sit on hands
4. all the above minus sit on hands
Wait a minute - that's 6 things. I wonder how long it takes for "Aunty Settings" to set in :nutkick:
mambojumbo
Active Member
Re: 730li e66 probs
From what I understand, for cars manufactured pre 09/2005, the valve cover is black and one of the differences are the breather hose from valve cover to oil separator.
Anyway in my 2 mths of ownership, I have encountered a few of the common problems on the car which are relatively cheap to fix.
1) Parking brake failure - ordered the replacement gears from odometergears.com $160usd.
2) DSC/ABS control unit failure (ABS/DSC/Servotronic/DTC/Cruise Control inactive lights up) - $800
3) Coolant tank leak - $160
4) Wear and tear replacement engine mounting, gearbox mounting, prop shaft flex disc, ATF + Filter, Oil Svc + Spark Plugs, Valve cover gasket, oil sump gasket - $1.9k
Plan to do the water pump and thermostat next, probably do the alternator($500 part) and AC Compressor($700 part) in the near future when changing the belt and tensioner.
From what I understand, for cars manufactured pre 09/2005, the valve cover is black and one of the differences are the breather hose from valve cover to oil separator.
Anyway in my 2 mths of ownership, I have encountered a few of the common problems on the car which are relatively cheap to fix.
1) Parking brake failure - ordered the replacement gears from odometergears.com $160usd.
2) DSC/ABS control unit failure (ABS/DSC/Servotronic/DTC/Cruise Control inactive lights up) - $800
3) Coolant tank leak - $160
4) Wear and tear replacement engine mounting, gearbox mounting, prop shaft flex disc, ATF + Filter, Oil Svc + Spark Plugs, Valve cover gasket, oil sump gasket - $1.9k
Plan to do the water pump and thermostat next, probably do the alternator($500 part) and AC Compressor($700 part) in the near future when changing the belt and tensioner.
