Powered side mirrors ? I thought it was standard on all the F10s by now ? You mean folding mirrors or auto tilt downwards ?
F10 528i mods and maintenance (Pics)
- Thread starter rssid
- Start date
Powered side mirrors ? I thought it was standard on all the F10s by now ? You mean folding mirrors or auto tilt downwards ?
It's not standard on mine
Nope try eng soon
Bored and wanted to change my reverse lights to LEDs. Popped open the covers to have a look at the bulb and this is what I found.
1. Weird bulb .... found out later its called BAY9S. Note the 2 prongs at the bottom are slightly closer to each other.
2. Pic from stockist computer
3. Replacement LEDs
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33003551750.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.6d1c4c4dUJROlq
1. Weird bulb .... found out later its called BAY9S. Note the 2 prongs at the bottom are slightly closer to each other.
2. Pic from stockist computer
3. Replacement LEDs
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33003551750.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.6d1c4c4dUJROlq
Its not difficult to swap out the bulbs. Basic tools like a philips head screwdriver and fingers to pop out the little black retaining clips and pull the boot lining down.
1.Look inside and there are 2 clips holding the light cluster in place. Push gently and it'll come down.
2. Twist off the bulb and replace
3. Test its all working before closing up.
4. Admire your work .. damn that's bright
5. Damn seller said that it had canbus and 0 errors.
6. Lucky I had bimmercode and coded it out with my phone. Simply select LED and warning goes away.
https://bimmercode.app/cars/f10/
Reversing light left lamp
Values:
And that's how to do it nice and cheap !
Update feedback to seller and he's sending me a replacement set to test for errors FOC.
1.Look inside and there are 2 clips holding the light cluster in place. Push gently and it'll come down.
2. Twist off the bulb and replace
3. Test its all working before closing up.
4. Admire your work .. damn that's bright
5. Damn seller said that it had canbus and 0 errors.
6. Lucky I had bimmercode and coded it out with my phone. Simply select LED and warning goes away.
https://bimmercode.app/cars/f10/
Reversing light left lamp
Values:
- Bulb
- LED
- “Footwell Module” FRM__03CT control unit
And that's how to do it nice and cheap !
Update feedback to seller and he's sending me a replacement set to test for errors FOC.
Last edited:
Last edited:
So a little long term review on BM3 after going from stage 1 91 map to stage 2 93 map.
For the money, stage 1 93 is the best bang for buck in terms of $ per hp gained. The saying of reducing benefits holds very true here.
For info 2013 F10 528i N20 stock engine puts out 180kw/241hp and 350nm torque at the ENGINE/CRANK. Due to transmission tyres etc the real HP is lower when measured at the wheels.
Reference:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMW_N20
N20 (EWG 20i)
Stage 1 91 octane (95 ron): 48%HP / 54%TQ = 356hp / 539tq
Stage 1 93 octane (98 ron) : 52%HP / 56%TQ = 366hp / 546tq
Stage 2 91 octane (95 ron) : 54%HP / 58%TQ = 371hp / 553tq
Stage 2 93 octane (98 ron) : 56%HP / 60%TQ = 375hp/ 560tq
https://www.protuningfreaks.com/pro...0i-428i-520i-528i?_pos=2&_sid=9467f0609&_ss=r
All numbers above are the tuner's and manufacturer's ESTIMATED figures. I'm not going to stick my car on a dyno as that opens a bigger can of worms as to day time temperature humidity type of dyno etc etc etc to argue about. Want real numbers and graphs ? Go do it yourself thanks.
Stage 1 requires NO hardware mods, although suggested is the charge and boost pipe as thats been known to crack under stock boost.
Costs incurred
500 USD for the license (1 free OTS map)
9.13 USD for eNet cable
50 USD for entire BM3 Map Pack
Stage 2 requires the following hardware
Front mounted intercooler (Wagner Tuning Copy) $230 USD
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32952148792.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.53034c4djmZuEc
High flow down pipe Catted/Catless ( ER 4' High flow catted) $1500
Personally BM3 is the best and easiest tuning software for anyone to do as everything is a 1 click idiot proof interface. Added benefit is the ability to sell/transfer the license 1 time in the future as well as the MULTIPLE OTS map updates that come out now and then making further improvements to HP and TQ.
For the money, stage 1 93 is the best bang for buck in terms of $ per hp gained. The saying of reducing benefits holds very true here.
For info 2013 F10 528i N20 stock engine puts out 180kw/241hp and 350nm torque at the ENGINE/CRANK. Due to transmission tyres etc the real HP is lower when measured at the wheels.
Reference:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMW_N20
N20 (EWG 20i)
Stage 1 91 octane (95 ron): 48%HP / 54%TQ = 356hp / 539tq
Stage 1 93 octane (98 ron) : 52%HP / 56%TQ = 366hp / 546tq
Stage 2 91 octane (95 ron) : 54%HP / 58%TQ = 371hp / 553tq
Stage 2 93 octane (98 ron) : 56%HP / 60%TQ = 375hp/ 560tq
https://www.protuningfreaks.com/pro...0i-428i-520i-528i?_pos=2&_sid=9467f0609&_ss=r
All numbers above are the tuner's and manufacturer's ESTIMATED figures. I'm not going to stick my car on a dyno as that opens a bigger can of worms as to day time temperature humidity type of dyno etc etc etc to argue about. Want real numbers and graphs ? Go do it yourself thanks.
Stage 1 requires NO hardware mods, although suggested is the charge and boost pipe as thats been known to crack under stock boost.
Costs incurred
500 USD for the license (1 free OTS map)
9.13 USD for eNet cable
50 USD for entire BM3 Map Pack
Stage 2 requires the following hardware
Front mounted intercooler (Wagner Tuning Copy) $230 USD
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32952148792.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.53034c4djmZuEc
High flow down pipe Catted/Catless ( ER 4' High flow catted) $1500
Personally BM3 is the best and easiest tuning software for anyone to do as everything is a 1 click idiot proof interface. Added benefit is the ability to sell/transfer the license 1 time in the future as well as the MULTIPLE OTS map updates that come out now and then making further improvements to HP and TQ.
Last edited:
Hi All, newbie here. Contemplating to take a plunge on a 2015 528. Have been hearing potential issues especially on leaking engine oil or "consuming" engine oil. Any experience to share? Also any potential gearbox issue at the car age? Lastly, what is the petrol consumption like? The trip meter of the car that I tested shows 8.1km/l but I know this is definitely not accurate as the car would have done many short distance urban test drives. Appreciate any advice. Thanks.
1. All bmws leak oil. Its a feature not a problem
2. Expect to top up at most 1L in between service. That's my experience so far. Anything more then that you have a serious problem.
3. No gearbox issues so far I don't belive in lifetime fluid so I changed the fluid at 60000kms.
4. Yes I'm doing approx 8.2L/km mix of highway and short trips so its not too far off the mark. If you're concerned about fuel you're in the wrong place here.
Nope not inspected yet I've got my stock one just incase any issues come up.
1. All bmws leak oil. Its a feature not a problem
2. Expect to top up at most 1L in between service. That's my experience so far. Anything more then that you have a serious problem.
3. No gearbox issues so far I don't belive in lifetime fluid so I changed the fluid at 60000kms.
4. Yes I'm doing approx 8.2L/km mix of highway and short trips so its not too far off the mark. If you're concerned about fuel you're in the wrong place here.
Hi rssid, truthfully respect your "candid-ness". Any advice what causes the oil leak? Is there a permanent fixed to this?
well if you plan to try inspection with it, post your result haha
The FC is about right though, my old 328 was doing about 9.1km/L, same engine lighter body.
Last edited:
Oil leaks ? Many things, as BMW in all of its infinite wisdom has chosen to adorn the engine with MULTIPLE plastic parts e.g oil sump and valve cover which are the main suspects. Plastic as we all know have ''Wonderful" heat resistance compared to metal and becoming brittle over time. <<---- Please note the sarcasm
Keep in mind that EVERY car eventually develops oil leaks just at what age and frequency so if you have ANY car for any prolonged time its an expected event and nothing to get worked up about.
Permanent fix ? Short answer is NO.
Here's the long answer-->>
Well you could go the drastic option and have the parts PERMANTLY sealed with glue / weld but that'll make future repairs impossible or near impossible, watch this guy's video thread. He deals with oil leaks
You can watch from 24:51 for a glued engine valve cover.
Thank you for the open and honest advice. Cheers.
afmcbeemer
Well-Known Member
Could you the feel the difference from Stage 1 > 2 .I'm on MHD with an N13 engine for the last 50k kms.The catted downpipe seems to be the costliest part of the endeavour.
In all honesty the answer is a NO. Not in everyday driving sg Roads. Save your money totally NOT worth it unless you have a track machine and wads of cash to throw at a depreciating piece of metal. $3K for stage 2 to gain hopefully another 20-30hp is not justified.
Want more performance ? Get lighter rims and better tyres. Remove the junk in the trunk and run around with a 1/2 tank of petrol instead of a full tank
ensure tyres are properly inflated. Get a full custom tune stage 1 instead of the ots map.