F10 528i mods and maintenance (Pics)
- Thread starter rssid
- Start date
1 sticky handle left decided to finish it up instead of letting it slide. You can do it with the door card connected to the rest of the electrical connections.
4 screws to remove to release the handle from the door card.
2 X Torx 20
2 X Torx 30
Squeeze the sides of the window switch from the back to remove the handles as per the video.
Credits to this Korean guy for showing me the way.
Simple tools required total time approx 30 mins +
4 screws to remove to release the handle from the door card.
2 X Torx 20
2 X Torx 30
Squeeze the sides of the window switch from the back to remove the handles as per the video.
Credits to this Korean guy for showing me the way.
Simple tools required total time approx 30 mins +
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And just for laughs and giggles. A knee cushion ! Its one of those weird things I never knew I needed till I had it !
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32851761153.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.29fe4c4dne1dzX
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32851761153.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.29fe4c4dne1dzX
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Decided to order my intake pipe. To replace the plastic piece, was tempted by MST intake but at nearly $350 sgd and no stock locally I went with FTP as I already have the charge and boost pipe. Also the MST is only partly metal with a good lot actually being cheaper silicon.
Link for MST:
https://mst-performance.asia/product/mst-bmw-n20-26-2-0t-turbo-inlet-pipe-bw-n2002/
Link for FTP
https://sg.carousell.com/dpmotorsports/
Super nice guy took about a week to come in, highly recommended seller ! His prices are pretty much what you see on the FTP webpage and that's with shipping to Singapore and delivery to his recommended workshop for installation.
He has quite a few workshops that will do the install but for east side CK Motors was the only one.
$240 (Intake) + $50 (Install) = $290 to replace the craptastic piece of pipe that BMW chose to put into a turbo charged engine.
Much hype about better airflow etc etc throttle response and power gains (all of which I'm oblivious to and can't feel). The only thing I do notice now is a soft but audible blow off sound when I let off throttle when building boost that I've never heard before.
All said and done, no check engine lights, car still pulling like a bull on stage 2 BM3 and happy with the experience can't say more then that.
Link for MST:
https://mst-performance.asia/product/mst-bmw-n20-26-2-0t-turbo-inlet-pipe-bw-n2002/
Link for FTP
https://sg.carousell.com/dpmotorsports/
Super nice guy took about a week to come in, highly recommended seller ! His prices are pretty much what you see on the FTP webpage and that's with shipping to Singapore and delivery to his recommended workshop for installation.
He has quite a few workshops that will do the install but for east side CK Motors was the only one.
$240 (Intake) + $50 (Install) = $290 to replace the craptastic piece of pipe that BMW chose to put into a turbo charged engine.
Much hype about better airflow etc etc throttle response and power gains (all of which I'm oblivious to and can't feel). The only thing I do notice now is a soft but audible blow off sound when I let off throttle when building boost that I've never heard before.
All said and done, no check engine lights, car still pulling like a bull on stage 2 BM3 and happy with the experience can't say more then that.
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And just to prove a point. Tada ! Best use of plastic award goes to my all time fav manufacturer ! Yes mounting point already broken.
Workshop says failure along the connecting points is super common leading to boost leak and loss of power many error and check engine lights.
Workshop says failure along the connecting points is super common leading to boost leak and loss of power many error and check engine lights.
Rainy rainy days are here decided to change wipers as it was getting streaky and making some noise as it goes across the windscreen. Most places seem to want upwards of $60 for a set of wipers but I managed to get mine about $30 for the PAIR.
F10 requires
1x18"
1x26"
Buy it here
https://shopee.sg/product/173483312/5715720342
1st up put the wipers into service position. To do that with ignition "OFF' hold the wiper stalk in the topmost position (2 detents up) for 3 seconds. Personally I could only get it to work by cycling the power on then back to off again, only then could I get it into service position. Just go up 2 detents no need to stop in the middle like my video here.
Then remove the wipers like so
Assembling the wipers
Number 1 adapter for the F10
Notice the number 1 on the adapter
After removing the wiper put a nice thick cloth under the wiper and put it back down while working. Tension is VERY strong and if it snaps back onto the windscreen it will crack the glass !
And then just reverse the process ! Tada wiper change under $35
F10 requires
1x18"
1x26"
Buy it here
https://shopee.sg/product/173483312/5715720342
1st up put the wipers into service position. To do that with ignition "OFF' hold the wiper stalk in the topmost position (2 detents up) for 3 seconds. Personally I could only get it to work by cycling the power on then back to off again, only then could I get it into service position. Just go up 2 detents no need to stop in the middle like my video here.
Then remove the wipers like so
Assembling the wipers
Number 1 adapter for the F10
Notice the number 1 on the adapter
After removing the wiper put a nice thick cloth under the wiper and put it back down while working. Tension is VERY strong and if it snaps back onto the windscreen it will crack the glass !
And then just reverse the process ! Tada wiper change under $35
Attachments
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Hi, May I know if there’s any improvement to the car after installing the GFB blow off valve?
No there is little to NO performance gains with the GFB DIVERTER valve. There is NO GFB F10 specific blow off valve that i know off.
https://gfb.com.au/products/blow-off-and-diverter-valves/dv-plus/t9357-various-bmw-applications/
https://gfb.com.au/performance-parts-that-fit/998000265/bmw-5-520i/528i-f10/f11/f07-n20-engine/
This is preventative maintenance as the DV by BMW is a craptastic piece of plastic prone to cracking and breaking under higher boost levels that I'm running with a stage 2 tune.
ANYONE that tells you this boosts performance just wants to sell you stuff with little to 0 product knowledge walk away from them and do you're own research .
Next up HUGE pics and posts. Performance Intake by K&N. DiY friendly simple tools required most of the time was taken cleaning the accumulated dirt dust and crap.
Wow wee an actual DYNO sheet to show a 10.9hp gain at 5400 rpm ! Well for what I paid for it I wasnt going to complain plus it was kinda fun.
Specs:
https://www.knfilters.com/cold-air-intakes/bmw/528i/2.0l-l4-gas/2015
Wow wee an actual DYNO sheet to show a 10.9hp gain at 5400 rpm ! Well for what I paid for it I wasnt going to complain plus it was kinda fun.
Specs:
https://www.knfilters.com/cold-air-intakes/bmw/528i/2.0l-l4-gas/2015
Missed a few steps in my hurry to take everything out but i'll try and do the best i can to list the steps.
1. Open bonnet & remove the massive bolt on the bottom right of the strut brace to get at the airbox clamps all secured with alligator clips and loosen up everything.
2. Disconnect MAF sensor ( I used MAF cleaner to give it a bit of a clean but you can use any contact cleaner as well)
3. Remove the 3 spring clips at the side of the airbox holding the 2 halves together and associated hoses and etc.
4. Remove airfilter and 2nd 1/2 of the airbox via the bolt in the top of the airbox to access the snorkel/cold air induction pipe. You can just pull the airbox upwards as only 1 bolt was securing it in place.
Tada cleaning time !
Bolt shown clearly here
5. Snorkel
6. Cold air intake
7. Airbox with MAF sensor removed
8. Please note stuff a big cloth or something to block the intake part whilst cleaning. Don't want or need foreign objects going into your turbo and screwing it up !
1. Open bonnet & remove the massive bolt on the bottom right of the strut brace to get at the airbox clamps all secured with alligator clips and loosen up everything.
2. Disconnect MAF sensor ( I used MAF cleaner to give it a bit of a clean but you can use any contact cleaner as well)
3. Remove the 3 spring clips at the side of the airbox holding the 2 halves together and associated hoses and etc.
4. Remove airfilter and 2nd 1/2 of the airbox via the bolt in the top of the airbox to access the snorkel/cold air induction pipe. You can just pull the airbox upwards as only 1 bolt was securing it in place.
Tada cleaning time !
Bolt shown clearly here
5. Snorkel
6. Cold air intake
7. Airbox with MAF sensor removed
8. Please note stuff a big cloth or something to block the intake part whilst cleaning. Don't want or need foreign objects going into your turbo and screwing it up !
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Final assembly time. Its not difficult just a bit fiddly to get the silicon connectors onto the piping.
1. Cloth is removed and new intake pipe is attached.
2. Attach connectors to the airbox loosly.
It was a bit tight but easy to work just needed to twist the piping into position and connect it all up in the reverse order. Don't forget to reinstall the MAF sensor !
1. Cloth is removed and new intake pipe is attached.
2. Attach connectors to the airbox loosly.
It was a bit tight but easy to work just needed to twist the piping into position and connect it all up in the reverse order. Don't forget to reinstall the MAF sensor !
Clamp everything together, make sure the 3 spring clips snap together to hold both sides of the airbox tightly.
Swing the strut bar back down and bolt it up. Double check all clamps are tight go for a drive and enjoy !
All done !
Very sweaty and need a beer. Check the clamps again after a few days just to make sure everything's still in place. If you start having a rough idle and erattic rpm fluctuations at idle (when you didnt have them before) it means there's a air leak somewhere go back and check and tighten again !
Now if only i actually exceeded 4000rpm ........
Swing the strut bar back down and bolt it up. Double check all clamps are tight go for a drive and enjoy !
All done !
Very sweaty and need a beer. Check the clamps again after a few days just to make sure everything's still in place. If you start having a rough idle and erattic rpm fluctuations at idle (when you didnt have them before) it means there's a air leak somewhere go back and check and tighten again !
Now if only i actually exceeded 4000rpm ........
Next step XHP flash for the 8 Speed trans ! YES you can DiY this as well ! Black friday sales at 15% off
https://www.xhpflashtool.com/
xHP Map Pack8-Speed 1 x €149.99
xHP Flash License6-Speed 1 x €149.99
Price Subtotal €299.98
Discount BLACK FRIDAY - €44.99
€44.99 off total order price
Total €254.99 = 408.29 SGD
https://www.xhpflashtool.com/
xHP Map Pack8-Speed 1 x €149.99
xHP Flash License6-Speed 1 x €149.99
Price Subtotal €299.98
Discount BLACK FRIDAY - €44.99
€44.99 off total order price
Total €254.99 = 408.29 SGD
Hi, does anyone here encounter issue with knocking sound from the driver's seat when going over humps. Had a popular BMW specialist workshop to remove the seat to tighten everything but still couldn't solve the problem. Was told even changing the seat frame or backrest frame has no guarantee in getting rid of the knocking sound. Any advice is appreciated.
Bring it to another workshop, asking random people on the forum instead of actually having a mechanic check it is like buying the lottery. No one here has seen your car nor have you provided any information on your car's make model and year.
Viper Warrior
Well-Known Member
Not just Comfort mode, all modes also have. Sports mode can now go till 8th gear, not just 6th previously.
