Re: Ignition Upgrades
R2D;639205 said:
Shaun
If you have the guts, come down to the shop and see the whole process and then you can shoot off your mouth. The whole process takes about 1 hour to install properly and is not a simple plug and play install that can be done on the dyno itself.
I'm not interested in watching an install of a product, only testing it. Does it work, and to what degree does it work. It can be -1hp, 1hp, 10hp, 100hp, doesn't matter to me. Just interested in a real test.
After the initial 1 hour install, how long does it take to disable and enable, for an ABAB dyno test to be carried out?
I have the print outs of the table of values for both runs. How Motor Image chooses to range of values is their perogative, i have no control. What gain do you get by trying to overlay the graphs?
Johnson (if he is still there and I am sure he is still there) is a knowledgeable and nice operator and I am sure he knows what he is doing having been trained and certified by the dyno manufacturer.
The customer always has a right to request for overlays and on the same axes. Johnson listens to requests. I am sure MI standard procedure is to listen to customer requests on simple options that can be checked in the software.
What is gained is clear and fast comparison for all who look at the supposed before and after plots. Also it is easier and faster to see anomalies such as in this case where you have somehow managed to shift peak torque on your supposedly stock Honda by 1000 RPM.
You conveniently also forgot to mention that the "proven dyno runs for a common engine" comes from the manufacturer and they use engine dynos. There are only chassis dynos here and they provide different shapes compared to what you get in the brochure.
Please don't raise straw man argument. Read last post again. Many internationally will independently chassis dyno their stock or very lightly tuned engines (say K20A or S54, etc). When you look at the peak torque location of their chassis dynos vs the factory engine dyno, you still find peak torque location extremely close to factory.
To move peak torque location 1000 RPM away from stock on an NA engine takes major work. You have not explained sufficiently how you accomplished this.
All readers are free to search out any popular NA engine's dynos on its leading international forum. Get 10 samples if you can, and look at peak torque location. Count the number of outliers, Be your own judge
I have already wasted enough time on your crusade for the holy and true. In my earlier posts, i have claimed a small gain with this mod and now there is more than some small gain you refute the facts.
The facts must be refuted because the test is seriously flawed in at least 5 ways listed in previous post, and with your latest revelation about the plug state.
Just as serious is not having stated procedure, no ABA at least,
no witness, and an unexplained 3 hour gap between runs. Did the car leave the facility in that 3 hours? Why? Why was 3 hours needed? To do what?
We are running a business and time is money. We have spent money and time to prove some results and now you want more proof. I do not intend to waste anymore time and effort to justify your cause.
Very sad to realize that you are unwilling to openly and fairly test the product you sell so confidently.
Despite:
- your faithful supporters jinooi and rodders demanding conditions be stated
- community input on what makes a fair test
- clear procedure ready to be laid out based on community input and agreement
- Ryan volunteering his car and time
- free use of my loggers
- openly stated curiousity by a number of intelligent forum members here, as well as some who already installed your product
It seems that you are a fearful of even a basic scientific test.
Since you are the "guru" and the champion of the weak and ill-knowledged, stand up and say you will conduct the tests and fund the entire process. Pay for the sessions and prove the theory false.
I am sorry you do not understand the concept of burden of proof. You claim a gain (however small or big is fine), yet you do not test it properly at all. The burden of proof remains squarely on your shoulders.
With all the assistance and volunteers you already are offered, you should be grateful and not be demanding people asking the questions pay for your test.
You ask for 15 conditions to be fulfilled knowing that these conditions will only be satisfied by a owner that is willing to have several of his hoses cut so that a stand alone data logger can be wired into the car. Air duct from air filter needs to be cut to insert an air temp probe, Engine oil needs to be drained to insert oil temp sensor. Radiator top hose needs to be cut too for the coolant sensor. To perform the tests according to your specifications, i estimate about $600 in materials and fluids, excluding your sensors and data logging equipment. Thereafter you can proceed to your favourite dyno house so that the operator will allow you to sit beside to operate your equipment. (incidently, motor image does not allow anyone into the testing room). I am sure this amount of money and equipment is within your reach?
Please read earlier posts again.
Realize that most fluid temps change very slowly. 1Hz sampling is sufficient. Ryan's car (as volunteered) already has oil and water temp gauges. OBDII logging of the temps is also practical and cheap. Already includes IAT I bet. If not, a manual reading of the IAT requires only a single drill and tap. It can be plugged thereafter. I am sure Ryan has no problem with this.
Do not assume a second person has to be in the car. I am aware of MI dynocell rules. You forget I have a ton of compact and HD video systems that can be used to read gauges. All the operator has to do before each run is just speak "run 1" and then proceed with the pull. 1Hz changes in temp are too easy to keep track off.
So come off your high and mighty horse and perhaps you can learn a thing or 2. Life is a learning journey. When you stop learning, you stop growing. There are things that i read from your posts that contribute towards knowledge building.
Very true, but I think you need to come off your high horse and admit that the previous test was seriously flawed, and be willing to run a simple, practical, affordable test. Jinooi said he'll chip in, Ryan's car is at your disposal, as are my loggers, video systems, etc.
You also have no short supply of neutral witnesses.
The greenplus that we sold previously was not brought in by us but rather YOUR BENEFACTOR. We went into business with him and he was the agent for the product. We have long since parted ways and we have chosen to drop the product due to a lack of scientific proof. We can do so at the shop cos we do not sign any consignment deals nor seek sponsorship from vendors so if the product is deemed unsatisfactory, we can drop them and find alternatives.
Who is my benefactor? You mean Cheng Poh? How does Cheng Poh benefit me? Last I spoke to him was probably 11 years ago.
So you take on a product, and you push a product (do we need to go back and dig it up?) without testing, then later you decide it lacks proof so you drop it. So at anytime you can pick up untested products and promote it, then decide on a whim later on to drop it?
Shouldn't you thoroughly test all products (including ignition booster) before you sell it?
Anyway, as an update to the honda accord, the car came back in on saturday. The car had a misfire and we found the plug in cylinder 2 had a very badly eroded ground electrode. The car was not using the iridium plugs that the honda japan recommends. It was the standard big tip plugs that are common. The rest of the 3 plugs was almost as bad. Apparently, the previous owner had not changed they plugs for a long time. 4 new plugs later, the car now runs fine and the owner is happy again. Why do i share this info? Shoot again lah!!!!
Ah so if all these questions had not been asked, would you have volunteered this information that confirms your previous test as invalid?
If the plug condition was so bad, how is it that the later test is improved? A bad plug should hurt all tests, especially the last test. Yet it was the last test that was healthy and had peak torque right at the factory stock location. How is this so?
You did not hear any problem with the car? No one could feel a problem driving it down and back, or during a pull? Amazing.
Until a proper test is carried out, all questions will remain unanswered, and new questions will pile on. It is not shooting, but simple curiousity. It's not about big, small, agenda, poor, rich, competitor, ricebowl, friend, enemy, hardship, etc. but simple scientific standards. Of course I would prefer if the company / person making claims or running crazy tests was a big company, rich stranger. Makes it easier to ask the questions.
You forget that I used to MTB every week with Darryl and his brother as a good friends, did a couple of races, probably covered thousands of km. When we lost contact we were still friends. Obviously nothing against him. As for you, you were always the awesomely friendly chap helping CP out his electrical work on different cars, and a integral part of one of the earliest and biggest "major" automotive projects of my life back then. At the time it was major and unprecedented, and still is nothing to sniff at even after 11 years. If anything, I should be accused of having a bias in favour of R2D because I've known both of you as friends before. Why would I try and target friends specifically? I am all for friends and underdogs, etc. It's just that the standards here are more important.
What Roberto said is very true and is worth repeating here
"This is an enthusiast's forum, not for industry players. Merchants starting threads are welcome where accepted but they must have the EQ to respond to criticism in a way that maintains the friendly atmosphere and without getting anyone's guard up (especially since this is so typically singaporean already). They are getting real cheap (and sometimes) free advertising. So say what you want with ordinary care, but if any merchant is going to be uncool in defending himself, he should simply take out a second mortgage and start advertising in the papers instead of posting on threads here......We certainly don't want a forum where you would feel constrained in your expression....the forum is meant for us not merchants, they are welcome where welcomed, but they are definitely the 'accessories' and not the 'engine' of the thing."